Fleur De Rocaille by for Caron 1993


I have quite a lot of the Caron fragrances. I like the way they smell, that they seem to be joined, the bottles and the packaging. There is something glamorous about the whole Caron thing that lures me in. I think it is a neglected icon that needs a Tom Ford to sweep in and resurrect their staus.

Fleur De Rocaille by for Caron 1993

FleurDeRocaille FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, gardenia, violet
Heart: Carnation, iris, rose, ylang ylang, lilac, jasmine, lily of the valley, mimosa
Base: Oakmoss, musk, cedar, amber, sandalwood

Fleur De Rocaille means flowering rock garden or flower of rubble. So, of course, I expected to be floated away on a hefty sparkling floral with stark and challenging depths that floated high and above a labdanum (rock rose) base. I expected goat, grass, greenery and twisted & tortured woods.

What did I get, the air at high altitude, it opens fizzy like a life saver mint which fits with how I expect the air to smell in a rock garden and then becomes the softest, sweetest and most fleeting fragrance I have in my memory. The note list reads like a 1980’s blockbuster and I am sadly deflated. Having said that there is a lovely section from about 30mins to 1.5 hours that to me is a soft lily, not the very fragrant ones, and some mimosa, after that I get sugar, something quietly green and amber but so sparse as to almost not be there. I wonder if this was made with the Chinese and Japanese markets in mind?

If you hate perfume but feel the need to have something on your dresser and that you must spritz before you leave the house then this is for you. You will not be overwhelmed, nobody will complain of you skunking even an elevator after a double quadruple spritz. I use the last 3 ml of my 5ml decant today in one wearing and only noticed that I was wearing fragrance intermittently, and no one else commented at all.

RockGardenDesigns amazing-home-designPhoto Stolen AmazingHomeDesign

Further reading UnseenCenser
FragranceNet has 100ml around $45
MyPerfumeSamples has $2/ml or $7/5ml which is what I bought

I love the Caron vibe but feel it’s fading, with the new regulations I wonder how these houses will survive. What do you think? Will we miss the old ways in 20 years or will the people then be immune to it?
See you tomorrow,
Portia xx

16 comments on “Fleur De Rocaille by for Caron 1993

  1. brie says:

    I’m with you P…love Caron…favorite being Nocturnes but the old non-reformulated version….I surely miss the “old ways” and I will never be immuned to the butchering of my lovelies 😦 !!

  2. Azar says:

    I have a couple of old (1950’s) bottles of Fleurs de Rocaille pure perfume in the original packaging complete with the paper doilies. Believe it or not both of these still smell good! I can’t bring myself to open or use them too often, though, for fear the doilies will start to fall apart. I just refuse to buy the new stuff.

    Regarding reformulation: Does anyone know if there has ever been a reformulation that was as good or better than original? In my experience the most recent reformulations shouldn’t even carry the names of the original fragrances. I believe these new versions would do better in the marketplace if their names did not even reference the old product (at least until the generation that remembers them is long gone).

  3. palmward says:

    Portia: I couldn’t agree more. Right from the beginning Ernest Daltroff and Felicie Wanpouille were covering ground that were rarely evereven approached by any of the other greats…Narcisse Noir, Nuit de Noel, the sublime N’aimez que Moi, and my Fav – Bellodgia…she stands with Shalimar in any blind smell off.

  4. Dearest Portia

    My name is The Dandy and I am a Caron-oholic.

    My last spritz was yesterday.

    For what it’s worth my view is that some of the fragrances are not quite what they used to be, but not as changed as some of our memories might lead us to think. I’ve been lucky enough to compare some vintages with the modern product and in several cases (though not all) what’s about today is not bad.

    My fear for the house is not that it will be hugely affected by regulation, I believe many of those changes have been implemented already, but the current half-hearted attempt at re-packaging.

    It would be awful if Caron were to loose its core audience along with the beautiful crystal without gaining a new crowd.

    How one sincerely hopes that won;t happen.

    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

    • It’s a posing problem. Some of them are OK yes but still it is the changing of the guard and we will mourn, I think that bellodgia and Parfum Sacre are still good
      Portia xx

      • Dearest Portia
        I think to that concentration and source also come into play.
        The scents are still available here decanted from the amphorae (great crystal flasks) and in Eau de Parfum and Extrait.
        Though it shouldn’t, all things being equal, make a difference, I’m convinced it does.
        The more we can all do to keep the Caron name out there, the greater the chance the institution and its scents will survive.
        Yours ever
        The Perfumed Dandy

      • I wish I had taken time to go to Caron while in Paris. They would have survived another year off my spend, next time.
        Portia xx

  5. Madeleine says:

    Hello lovely!
    I also love the Caron vibe and adore the Tubereuse, Tabac Blonde and En Avion. I too worry that they will disappear, given the restrictions and the fact that the fragrances ate already ghosts of their former selves. I hope someone comes in and resurrects them. I too love the packaging but my only gripe is that the tops don’t fit properly after a few uses.

    M xx

  6. saffyishere says:

    Oh I long to go to the Caron Maison in Paris!!! A few yrs ago now,2002 ,poss. my sister went. She bought me 30ml Narcisse Blanc Extrait. The packaging it came is gorgeous. She also bought back 1ml samples of French Can Can , En Avion , Parfum Sacre and Fleur de Rocaille. I loved the FDR immediately and sourced a bottle. I would prefer someone OTHER THAN Tom Ford sweep in, however in agreeance needs a ‘shake up’ You have inspired me ,Portia…next month ,I shall request a Caron for my birthday. Perhaps a Bellodgia.

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