Fahrenheit Absolute by Francois Demachy for DIOR 2009

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Post by Margeaux

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Hello everyone again! Dior’s Fahrenheit is 25 years old in 2013 and is still one of the best selling men’s scents of all time. The version I’m reviewing, Absolute, was released in 2009 to mark the fragrances 21st birthday. One of my ex’s was a huge fan of the original Fahrenheit and still wears it to this day so I tend to associate it with him. I’m not quite sure how I feel about a different version of such a classic scent, but I also have the Aqua version to try in a future review so here goes nothing!

Dior Fahrenheit Absolute 2009

Fahrenheit Absolute FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Volet, myrrh, incense, aoud

Immediately I’m intrigued – surely 4 notes is too few for what is billed as a bold and sensual, woodsy, ultra masculine scent? Can it be done? We’ll see.

Although I’m using a sample tester for this review, I’ve always loved the original bottle shape and styling, and Absolute carries on this tradition with darker colouring that signifies the juice inside is more potent than the original.

Ok, time to spritz and wait for the alcohol to evaporate so I can start to get a decent whiff happening. And oh boy, is this something good to my nose. The devilish simplicity of those opening notes, sweet and yet not sweet at all, nearly soapy but again not quite there. I had to go reading some more about Myrrh just to be sure of what I was supposed to be smelling and even after all that, I’m not sure if that is what my nose gets to start with, but whatever is going on its tantalizing and sensual and exotic and I am hooked.

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Its very flowery and gently sweet as the fragrance settles into my skin. I’m sniffing and writing while I work on some of my clients projects and it’s a soothing, comforting warm smell that wafts up from the back of my hand as I type. Francois Demachy who created this perfume is credited with just about all of the Dior range and is surely one of the hardest working perfumers out there with Fragrantica listing over 80 fragrances that he’s had a hand in creating – amazing!

Deeper into the drydown and the oud and incense caress and envelop and warm my senses and my soul. I can’t get much projection from this but that kind of suits me that it stays pretty close to my body. I think if I spritzed with abandon as I like to that it may become overwhelming both to me and those around me and perhaps this is a good late evening (read bedtime) kind of scent. I find it quite sensual.

Fahrenheit Absolute GoogleCommonsPhoto Stolen GoogleCommons

Having read a few reviews around other sites and the general consensus is pretty evenly split between those who love Absolute and those who don’t like it at all. This is a wonderful fragrance on me but the real test will be when I wear it when I am with the boyf next.

Further reading: The Scentrist and The Scentualist
My Perfume Samples has Absolute starting at just $2.49/ml
FragranceNet has 50ml from $64

I’m looking forward to testing the Aqua version soon too. Thanks for reading and as always, please leave me a comment if you’ve enjoyed the review or have tried this fragrance yourself. I love hearing from you all.

Until next time,
Margeaux x

The Fahrenheit Absolute Mini Movie

Terre d’Hermes by Jean Claude Ellena for Hermes 2006

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Post by Margeaux

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Hi Stinkies! My my how time flies and here we are in June already. As the days got a little cooler, I came to realise that most of my scents are geared towards summer. As I embark further on my fragrant explorations, I’m becoming more adventurous and so I recently purchased a box of samples from My Perfume Samples. A very big box. I can now safely call myself a junkie because that box contained no less than 36 vials of stink. Junkie = Yes!. Problem = No! I’ll be the best smelling boy on the block or I’ll die trying lol

Terre d’Hermes by Hermes 2006

So the first one out of the box in true lucky dip style is Terre d’Hermes by Hermes. Now this is a decant of the EDT, not the parfum, and was created in 2006 by the talented Jean-Claude Ellena.

TerreD'Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica lists the following featured accords:
Top: Orange, Grapefruit
Heart: Pepper, Pelargonium
Base: Patchouli, Benzoin, Vetiver, Cedar

Looking at the ingredients above, this should be an absolute slam-dunk of a fragrance for me. I love woods, pepper, patchouli and vetiver and can’t wait to give this a go. Doing these reviews I’m practically bathing in the smell so that it invades the space and demands my attention. I can get a little distracted so I’ve found that this is the best way for me.

Spritz, spritz, spritz….. wait for the alcohol to go and then inhale. Mmmm, now that is delicious – full of the citrus fruits that smell clean and sweet but not so sweet as to be sickly. Terre d’Hermes is refreshing, delicious sweetness. I’m not usually a huge fan of orange in particular, or perhaps those fragrances from before that include it just weren’t well made. But here, orange and grapefruit work so well.

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My nose is still quite naïve and is slowly starting to work properly again after smoking for over 20 years, and these reviews force me to look closer at the ingredients. I had no idea about Pelargonium but read that it’s a type of geranium and commonly used in masculine fragrances to provide a flowery note. Now that I know this, it’s easy to spot it as the middle ingredients lift the curtain on the second act. The pepper doesn’t run wild and to my nose, it’s the pelargonium that does most of the heavy lifting here.

As we hit the final act of this Hermes production, I’m overwhelmed by just how good Terre d’Hermes is. These last notes swirl together like best friends, in a classy joyous embrace that is at once astounding and yet comfortable too. It’s not overtly masculine (one reviewer described this scent as what a lumberjack would likely wear!), and in fact I could see this easily being worn by women that love the notes offered.

Terre d'Hermes Desert wallpaper-sourcePhoto Stolen wallpaper-source

Sillage is fantastic, and many hours later I find that although I can easily smell the Terre d’Hermes that I sprayed onto the back of my hand hours earlier, while I type and as I pause for the next word, I can’t help but draw my hand to my nose for a deeper, full sniff. This is divine and what truly great fragrance should be like.

Further reading: Portia on AustralianPerfumeJunkies and BoisDeJasmin
My Perfume Samples has Terre d’Hermes from $2.50/ml to $7.50/5ml
FrangranceNet offers a 50ml from $67

See you next month.
M xx

Grigioperla Essence by Pierre Bourdon for La Perla 2009

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Post by Margeaux

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Hi all you lovely smelling people. This is my 5th review for APJ and I hope you’re enjoying reading them as much as I am enjoying writing them. I seem to have had no real structure or direction when purchasing scents until Portia started sharing his love of perfumes and I realised there was so much more to learn and get excited by. Today’s frag is one that I discovered quite by accident but I have fallen mightily in love with.

Grigioperla Essence by La Perla 2009

Grigioperla Essence La Perla FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cypress, Pink Pepper, Bergamot
Heart: Magnolia, Lavender, Jasmine
Base: Pine tree, Thuja, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Cedar

Grigioperla Essence for Men was created in 2009 by master perfumer Pierre Bourdon. Now that little titbit had completely passed me by til just now, as I started to research for my review. He was the nose behind more than 40 fragrances but probably best known for the commercial smashes of YSL’s Kouros (1981) and Davidoff’s Cool Water (1988). Amazing, right?

Woody, much? I do love my woody scents, and this was precisely why I bought this one completely on spec (unsmelled).

I’ve just blasted three big juicy sprays onto my forearm to get a good whiff of it going and I just love that super cypress and pepper opening. Wow. Wow. It wakes me up and makes me feel so good. Like the day ahead is one that I can do anything with. Grigioperla Essence settles quickly into the lavender and jasmine – they gently play together while running down the side of a fresh meadow.

Lavender Jasmine FrenchRevolutionFoodPhoto Stolen FrenchRevolutionFood

The magnolia takes a little longer to get there but when it does, it joins the flowers to add a sense of masculinity that it would otherwise lack. I think the combination is delicious.

The final phase brings together the last of the woody notes, and for me, it’s where this fragrance really shines. There’s not one ingredient that takes centre stage here, but they all work together to create a harmonious forest of smell that I find incredibly sensuous. They aren’t heavy but exude a freshness and crispness, much like a cool autumn morning on a wooded track. I just love it.

Grigioperla Essence La Perla Chopped Wood wikimediaPhoto Stolen wikimedia

A lot of other reviewers have mentioned the poor sillage, and I have to agree. It does fade quite quickly and is basically non-existent around 4-5 hours. I like to think that my skin loves it as much as my nose and just gobbles it right up, hungry for more. My poor little 50ml bottle is already nearly empty but a replacement is so reasonable. It seems its not stocked widely these days, which is a shame, because this is very wearable and enjoyable.

EssentialMall starts at $23/50ml

See you soon, M x

Uomo? By Moschino EDT 1998

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Guest Post by Margeaux

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This month I’m reviewing a fragrance that I knew absolutely nothing about when I bought it on sale some months ago. Launched in 1998, UOMO? By Moschino is an interesting fragrance that I am still a lot unsure about.

Uomo? By Moschino EDT 1998

Uomo FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Basenotes lists the following:
Top: New Hedione, Rose Wood, Transparent Coriander, Kumquat
Heart: Cyclamen, Cinnamon Leaves, Clary Sage
Base: Cedarwood, New Amber Accord, Artemisia, Sunlight Accord, Musk

Moschino is an Italian fashion label started in 1983, and became famous for innovative, colourful and eccentric designs as much as for founder Franco Moschino’s criticism of the fashion industry. The labels first men’s fragrance, Pour Homme, was released in 1990 with UONO? following many years later in 1998. Produced under license by Euroitalia, there are now 4 men’s and 10 women’s fragrances released with the Moschino name.

I love woody scents best of all and that was what originally caught my eye in the description of UOMO? when I was shopping for something new to smell. That and I’d never heard of it so chances were that I’d be buying and wearing something that few others would also own. Win win in my book.

The bottle is sleek and hefty, angled clear glass with a silver cap that is made for masculine hands. Its big but fits just right. The pale yellow perfume inside gives the overall bottle an understated and classic look, and it looks good on my dresser.

But that for me is really where the love ends, as I can’t find anything about UOMO? to really rave about. The opening is nothing remarkable, gently fresh and a little citrus, but without any big pow, punch or hit that I seem to desperately want from it. Some of the online reviews suggest that since reformulation it’s lost a lot of its kick, and that seems plausible to me.

Uomo? Moschino FreshCitrusSalad CulinaryCachePhoto Stolen CulinaryCache

I’m straining to get much from the mids or even the base notes as it settles down, and although I’m sure that something is going on, its failed to command even an ounce of attention. Wondering if it was just me and whether or not perhaps I was immune to its charms, I’ve worn it around several friends with good noses and not a single one has mentioned anything at all about it, when they are usually very forthcoming with an opinion or comment on what I am wearing.

I practically drown myself in UOMO? and it smells nice, but nothing that makes me stop in my tracks. It also doesn’t seem to last very long either, and in fact, it disappears entirely for me after only 3-4 hours.
(Ed: Reads like a good work frag for after the gym)

All in all I find this very ho-hum, and very disappointing. I won’t be purchasing it a second time.

FragranceShop has $21/50ml
MyPerfumeSamples starts at $2/ml but $6/5ml

Until next time, smell good.
Margeaux x

Shiseido Zen by Françoise Caron and Francis Kurkdjian for Men 2009

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Guest Post by Margeaux

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Shiseido Zen for Men 2009

“Infinite passion. Endless possibilities.” goes the tagline on this wonderful fragrance from Shiseido, one of Japans leading cosmetic and beauty houses. As with a lot of my smells, I bought this one on a whim as well. I was a huge, HUGE fan of a previous Shiseido men’s fragrance, Basala for Men, which has been discontinued for so long now it is but a distant fragrant memory for me. Developed in 2009 by Françoise Caron and Francis Kurkdjian, Shiseido’s guide tells me that this is a spicy woody frag layered with exotic fruits and masculine musk, and I reckon they are pretty much bang on with how this one plays out.

ZenforMen FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords::
Top: Nashi Pear, Bergamot, Kumquat
Middle: Nutmeg, Violet, Rhododendron
Base: Patchouli, Leather, Musk

So still being a bit new to reviewing perfumes, forgive me if my terms aren’t always right or clear but I am learning as I go.

Lets start with the bottle – a hefty chunk of clear glass housing a lovely translucent sea green/blue liquid. Topped with a mirrored cube that picks up every tiny fingerprint, but when polished looks amazing sitting on your dresser, very masculine, contemporary and smart bottle that I love to pick up. Very similar to another favourite bottle design – Gucci’s original Men’s Gucci Pour Homme EDT.

I spray with abandon to get a full dose of Zen onto my skin, and the opening is very fresh, very clean and maybe just a little sharp for my nose. It’s possible that I put too much on, but I like to get that full hit with anything I spray. Call me greedy – I don’t care! Once its settled in a few minutes, the fruits really start to come through and it becomes a whole lot more pleasant. I find it to be refreshing and not at all too sweet either.

The opening notes don’t seem to linger too long before it grows into the middle, the lovely violet and Rhododendron beginning to steal the show. This stage is altogether lovely, and each chance waft is a delight, calming and caressing, never impatient.
The highlight for me though is much later when the nutmeg, leather and musk begin to (slow) dance together. This is when the real masculinity of this fragrance comes to the fore and stays right where it can be enjoyed. I also get a hint of tobacco or cigar smoke in my nose, although it’s clearly not mentioned anywhere so I may just be adding that in from my own experiences or desires. One minor disappointment for me is that the patchouli seems to have gone missing. If you read my last review of Boss Elements Aqua [LINK], I mentioned how much I love patchouli and although it’s included in Zen for Men, I can’t really find it.

Zen_stone ChangeDesktpPhoto Stolen ChangeDesktop

Zen for Men lasts well on me, I get a good 6-8 hours of smell and as other reviewers mention, it stays much longer on clothing so I will often spray this when I am throwing on a jumper (sweater for you north americans!) in the cooler autumn months and let the fragrance taint my jumper, so that until washing it becomes the Zen jumper.

Shiseido’s marketing suggests that this fragrance provides freedom when you find enlightenment, with dynamic essences, and internal passion intensified by an endless energy. Umm, ok, lol. It’s a bit much for me. But lets cut to the chase – it smells bloody good. So ignore the mumbo-jumbo marketing stuff and get your hands on this one.

CheapSmells
has 50ml/$47

See you soon,
Margeaux

Here is the movie

Boss Elements Aqua by Hugo Boss 1997

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Guest Post by Margeaux

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Hi APJ,

Launched all the way back in 1997 when I was a mere 22 years of age, I didn’t buy my first bottle of this until the early 2000’s when the local department stores interest in it started to wane and the cost came down. After you’ve read a few of my “reviews” you’ll see that there is a recurring theme here – I’m cheap and hate paying full price for fragrance, even if it means waiting for a few years til the novelty has worn off and others are onto the next hot thing. Billed as a woody aromatic for men, in my experience it doesn’t stray too far away from the familiarity of other Boss scents. They’ve carved out a deserved reputation for everyday fragrances for men over the years. Not overly adventurous in my experience but for men that aren’t as into this as we stink junkies are, they can safely rely on a Boss fragrance delivering what they need.

Boss Elements Aqua by Hugo Boss 1997

BossElementsAqua FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica provides these accords:
Top: Lavender, Mint, Pineapple
Heart: Freesia, Tea, Pepper, Coriander
Base: Vetiver, Vanilla, Patchouli, Sandalwood

The first spritzes (again remember I am a super heavy spritzer) I find to be very pleasing, not overly tart or demanding, but you definitely get a strong tantalizing waft of a lovely fresh masculine scent. I’m usually applying this one as soon as I’ve dried off from the morning shower, and I love the crispness of those opening notes and the way it plays with my senses in those minutes as I get ready for my day ahead. Really peps me up!

There’s a lovely wash of the mint and just a hint of the pineapple that opens this up, and as it starts to settle down the lavender joins in keep things interesting. It’s nearly like a gently softly scented soap at this point but nowhere near as soapy sterile for my nose.

When the mid notes to start to warm it up ever so slightly, its still quite green, which I am learning is most likely the inclusion of freesia. After a good 30 minutes or so, it definitely begins to progress towards a spicier tone thanks to the tea and pepper, coriander and I can detect the beginnings of the base notes coming through. I’m a sucker for sandalwood based smells and actively go looking for them, and although this one tends to be a little light on the sandalwood, it is there and hangs in for the run which tends to fade around the 8 hour mark on my skin.

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The real surprise for me in this set of ingredients is the patchouli, which no matter where I smell it always, ALWAYS, reminds me of opening Madonna’s Like A Prayer album all the way back in 1989. When the album was initially released, it was heavily perfumed with patchouli. I was working in a record store at the time and I found the heady smell intoxicating for those weeks when we held and sold an incredible amount of this album. (Does anyone else remember this? It was amazing!)

So I think you’ve got the idea that Elements Aqua has become a firm favourite of mine, I think I may have gone through at least 5 or 6 bottles so far. I usually have a 100ml and a 50ml on the go at once, the smaller one being my travel smell because it just works brilliantly no matter what I’m doing. I find it to be exceptionally wearable just about anywhere, anytime.

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I also love that as its notoriety has waned, there are fewer guys that seem to be wearing it. If you are looking for a bargain scent that just about everyone will love, you could do worse than ignore this forgotten gem before it disappears forever.

MyPerfumeSamples offers $2/ml and $7/5ml
FragranceNet has the 100ml for a tiny $46

See you next month,
Mx
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A little present forv you Margeaux. Portia XX

Oscar For Men by Oscar de la Renta 1977 (1999 re-release)

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Guest Post by Margeaux

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Hi all, and thanks for joining me for my very first Junkies review. Please be kind as I am new to discussing the smells that I have loved for some time or have just been recently introduced to. You may have seen me in some of the live sniff movies that have happened – my first was the Cher Uninhibited sniff that Portia and I did way back at the start of 2012. I tend to be quite conservative in what I will buy or try, and tend to stick to the big name fashion houses but slowly over time Portia and the rest of the APJ gang are schooling me on smelling all that the perfume world has to offer. What a great journey ahead of me!

Oscar For Men by Oscar de la Renta 1977 (1999 re-release)

OscarforMen FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, fir resin, bergamot, pepper
Heart: Nutmeg, lily, lavender, jasmine, violet leaf, cloves, rose
Base: Leather, sandalwood, musk, balsam fir, vanilla, incense

So today I’m tackling a scent from one of fashion’s most iconic designers – Oscar de la Renta. This is one of his few men’s fragrances and what he lacks in quantity, he certainly makes up for with quality.  Oscar for Men was launched all the way back in 1977 but relaunched in 1999 so its far from new. Sadly, it doesn’t seem to rate so highly anymore over at ODLR as it doesn’t appear on the website at all – to find out anything about this one you’ll have to go to blogs and perfume sites.

But on to the scent itself, and it’s a lovely fresh, herbaceous fragrance, that is cool and even slightly aquatic to my nose. The opening notes remind me of walking through moss covered forests everything slightly wet underfoot but fresh smells wherever the wind wafts. After it settles down the freshness remains, but it becomes a more subtle blend of woods and pepper, and on my skin I still get just a hint of something sweet – not in a fruity way, but just with this tantalizing hint of sweetness like a not quite ripe granny smith apple perhaps. Still quite tart, but definitely some sugar in there too. When I close my eyes while smelling this, I get lots of images of forest greens rushing my mind.

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I was initially disappointed with how long it lasted on my skin as I’m a pretty heavy spritzer to make sure I get a good stink happening, but the first go of this one seemed to disappear quite quickly. In more recent times as my nose is recovering function after many years of smoking, lo and behold, Oscar lasts a lot longer than I initially thought. Now I will often get a waft late into the afternoon that is quite charming, still woodsy fresh and appealing.

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Other reviewers have noted that this is a good fragrance for summer months and I would heartily agree. Its definitely not one you’d wear in the dead of winter but otherwise I’d be tempted to wear it just about any other time of year. I tend to headache pretty easily (JPG’s Man and the original Tommy Hilfiger were instant headaches for me) when a scent is simply too much, but this sits nicely after it dries so you should be good to wear it just about anywhere you want to.

CheapSmells has 100ml EdT from $26
MyPerfumeSamples from $2/ml.

Smell ya later sassy stinkers!

Margeaux xx

Coco Mademoiselle by Jacques Polge for CHANEL 2001: LIVE Video Sniff

Dear Glamour Girl Frag Hags,

Here we are as an APJ crew, back again, tormenting another poor fragrance with our complete lack of knowledge, or in fact good taste (yes Portia, looking at you!!) but doing it all with a big tongue in cheek and great good humour, to us anyway. The crew EmmaKate, Margeaux and Robert “Radium” Maxwell are here to help me have a look at one of the big best seller blockbusters of last year.

As always we need to remind you that we are merely enthusiasts and that our unplanned LIVE Video Sniffs often contain oodles of crap. Funny crap but nonetheless……
Please enjoy our little bit of NSFW madness!

Coco Mademoiselle by CHANEL 2001

CocoMademoisell FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange, mandarin orange, orange blossom, bergamot
Heart: Mimose, jasmine, Turkish rose, ylang-ylang
Base: Tonka bean, patchouli, opoponax, vanilla, vetiver, white musk

Can I please say that I ADORE Coco by CHANEL and think Mademoiselle is nothing to do with it and should have been named CHANEL Mademoiselle instead of building up false hope and then dashing it, had I not expected AH MAY ZING beyond Coco Oriental bliss I would have been less let down and much less likely to sneer. On mature reflection it is a solid scent that crosses loads of boundaries, both sexes love it; albeit for different reasons. We laugh about it in the video but that 5ml decant went in under a week here at Chez Portia and I am still seriously thinking about a small bottle for myself for those girlish moments that come across us all, even the truck driving army dudes.

HotGirl leftosPhoto Stolen leftos

Further reading BoisDeJasmin and KatiePuckrik
TradeServices has 100ml EdP Aus$113
SurrenderToChance starts at $3/ml

Have you tried Coco Mademoiselle by CHANEL? Are you the demographic? Did or do you love or loathe it?

See you all happy and well tomorrow hopefully,
Portia xx

Festive + Fragrant LIVE Video Sniff: Nuit de Noel by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1922

To the amazing APJ Family,

From the whole crew here at AustralianPerfumeJunkies we want to wish you a magical, safe and fun Holiday Season. For everyone who celebrates it
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MerryChristmasRed stevemelan

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for everyone who doesn’t celebrate Xmas we still wish you all the joy, love, fun, silliness, bickering, food, drink, heath, wealth and happiness that goes along with this time for us who do.

For those who are feeling alone, sad, angry or useless. We love and need you. Please spritz yourself with something exquisite, have a cup of tea and a biscuit and if possible have a nap. There will be better days, promise, maybe write a list of 10 things you are grateful for, like your ability to read, cogitate, eat, smell. Write them down and give genuine thanks. No matter how small they seem compared to the bigger issues.

 

Nuit de Noel by Caron 1922

NuitDeNoel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Ylang-ylang, tincture of rose and jasmine
Heart: Sandalwood and oak moss
Base: Musk and amber.

Here is a little APJ MADNESS. Some of the crew all got together to send you a special message filled with love and the joy of Christmas. My BFF Kath was in charge of filming and Jin made it blog ready. We all had a great laugh and, as always, made complete twats of ourselves for your enjoyment. Please take everything we say with a grain of salt we are fragrance enthusiasts who have had a great night of trivia, booze, dinner and laughs. By the time we have made this particular video we had already shot 9 others and are all, frankly, mental by this stage. Do please enjoy.

Thanks for coming along on this fragrant journey with us, we are grateful that you do.
Loads of love to you, and yours,
The APJ Family & Crew
Clayton, Dionne, EmmaKate, Jordan, BFF Kath, Katrina, Madeleine, Margeaux, Suzanne, Tim, TSO Jin and Portia  XXOX