Duel by Camille Goutal + Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 2003

Hey there Fellow Fumies,

As you may know I love the Annick Goutal house of fragrance. We have covered the Annick Goutal Story, Perfume Reviews #1, Perfume Reviews #2, Perfume Reviews #3, Songes, and Grand Amour already on APJ, so you can see I’m a bit of a fan. And we still haven’t covered all the bottles in my collection yet. Terrifying, isn’t it? This bottle is a mini 15ml that I’m not quite sure where I came across it, I have decanted and spritzed for the purposes of todays review because I find it has better longevity than when I dab.

Duel by Annick Goutal 2003

Duel Annick Goutal FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Holly, petitgrain
Heart: Orris root, artemisia
Base: Guaiac wood, leather, musk

I’m going to start my story with another perfumer from another country. While in LA earlier this year Tom from Perfume Posse and Perfume Smellin’ Things were invited to see Roxanna Illuminated Perfumes at her magical home in the hills near Malibu. There, her husband Greg made us Green Maté which Tom and I looked at firstly with revolt and then gulped down like it was a milkshake, Tom even finishing the jug off. I have had random yearnings for the taste ever since. So when Annick Goutal writes on her page that Duel has Green Maté I now know what to expect.

The opening is green and striking and interesting, neither of the notes lists I have give any indication of how this lovely, sensual, slinky green sequined sheath of a fragrance smells. Both sharp and breathy, delicate and deep Duel does not make me think masculine at all, rustic, alluring, sparkling and earthy all come to mind but not masculine, though it will be a fabulous scent on a guy I think it equally beautiful for the girls. Oh and if you were wondering there is a real green mate feeling, green and milky but not sappy, full cream milk-ish and though Duel is all green it’s also sweet.

Duel Annick Goutal Mate CafeVirtuosoPhoto Stolen CafeVirtuoso

Further along the woods take over with a backdrop of breath, green and leather. I am surprised that this is not more spoken of in the community because it is beautiful, I feel quite beautiful when I’m wearing it and sexy, dead sexy. If you told me there was fig here I would believe you. Though there is no fruit anywhere on the list I do get something fruity, delicious but not sweet like the current5 rash of bright, sweet, juicy frags this is a deep fruity humm below the main story.

More people should wear Duel. I am going to wear it much more often.

From Annick Goutal site: Always once step ahead, never follower, nor a conformist, Annick Goutal Parfums present Duel, the fragrance for men who live life boldly and with daring. Duel speaks of love, as it is the way of Annick Goutal.
Duel, the triumph of beauty, high expectations, sensuality.
Duel, for the new romantics.
Green Maté absolute, Paraguay petitgrain, iris root, absinth, gaiac wood, leather, musk

Duel Annich Goutal Plush Sweet Green RotoFugiPhoto Stolen RotoFugi

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Perfume Posse
Beauty Encounter currently has $55/100ml which is less than half price!
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

Which of the Annick Goutal’s, if any, have you tried? Do you like the house? Have you had a hit of Duel?
Hopefully we’ll see you tomorrow for more fragrance fun,
Portia xx
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Songes by Annick Goutal + 25:43 by LUSH + Louis Vuitton = FABULOUS!!

Hey Stink Monkeys,

I’ll tell you a secret. I love Songes by Annick Goutal but I know it won’t last a full work night on me so I under layer on my stomach and backs of knees with LUSH 25:43. The Annick Goutal lasts about 2-3 hours and then 25:43 takes over and they are brilliant together. Every time I wear them as a duo people ask, compliment etc.

Songes by Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 2005

Songes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Frangipani, tiare flowers, jasmine sambac absolute, ylang-ylang, French vanilla

A floaty, dreamy, white night flower and vanilla glamourpuss of a fragrance that is fun, festive and elegant for the flirty seductress that you are inside. Songes will let her out and make the world aware of your intentions.

25:43 by Mark and Simon Constantine for LUSH 2012

25:43 FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Tonka bean, lime, lemongrass, ylang-ylang, myrtle, vanilla, litsea, hay

Still dreamy but less float and more heft. Greener and more resinous 25:43 is way more tenacious and really starts its most beautiful section at about the 2 hour point where the vanilla, tonka and ylang shine to a soft vanillic whisper at about 6 hours that lingers and lingers.

This mini movie has nothing to do with today’s topic but it’s too lovely to let slide another moment. Till tomorrow, ENJOY!!
Portia xx
Louis Vuitton Presents 2012 Digital at a Glance

Grand Amour by Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 1996

Well Hello there Fragrant Friends,

AustralianPerfumeJunkies has a long held love affair with Annick Goutal’s fragrances. They are beautiful and interesting without being confrontational or divisive. You are elegantly fragrant and perfumed, without the 1980’s strength but with a nod to the depths and intricacies that went into fragrance then. Even if you are a brand new perfumista, and for many people who will never fall down the fragrant worm hole, they are easy to love. Often it’s the Annick Goutal I reach for because they are so wearable, just add an extra spritz for evening.

Grand Amour EdT by Annick Goutal

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives the featured accords as Floral, Amber & Musk: these are further divided into :
Top: Turkish rose, lily, honeysuckle, hyacinth, fruity notes
Heart: French jasmine, lydia broom, leather, Indian mimosa
Base: Amber, vanilla, myrrh, musk

Annick Goutal’s website says: Grand Amour is the perfume of the serene passion Annick experienced with her husband, the cellist Alain Meunier, who would bring her a bouquet of white flowers every week.

Photo Stolen Annick Goutal

YUM as I spritz the first glorious waft is pure lily and fruit salad with a vegetative greenness that I attribute to the hyacinth but of course I’ve been wrong before. It is lush, ripe and crisp simultaneously and a perfect mid season scent, light enough for Spring and deep enough for Autumn. When the Turkish rose makes its entrance it seems to herald the introduction of French jasmine which does not come through as the sensual dirty ho at first but as a honeyed green sweetness pours in there are definite signs of all primness being forgotten and the rigid bun being let down. As Grand amout turns towards dry down I get a very sweet resinous musk, for some reason it doesn’t read vanilla and is definitely not gourmand, it is alluring though in a soft and calm come hither way.

I think you could wear Grand Amour by Annick Goutal in most social situations and at work as long as they aren’t fragrance phobic. You will be fragrant but not skunking unless you go spritz crazy. Go on, everyone deserves a Grand Amour.

Photo Stolen whitelibratexas

If I am intending to wear Grand Amour for any length of time I have to do a full respritz at the 2 hour mark. This self layering gives me a much greater fragrance life, depending on my movements and the weather up to 8 hours. Otherwise I’m lucky to get 4 hours.

ISmellThereforeIAm does a wonderful review for further reading.
MyPerfumeSamples start at $2/ml and does $7/5ml (What a FRICKEN BARGAIN)

So if you’re looking for a Grand Amour Annick Goutal has you all covered. You’ll smell awesome and don’t have to feed it breakfast.

The whole time I was writing this post Oh L’Amour by Erasure was playing through my head. It has the same sweet, sparkly, engaging sound as Grand Amour has fragrance. I put the video for you to enjoy. He He He.
Till tomorrow only the good stuff coming your way,
Portia xx

Songes by Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 2005

Hoya Perfumistas!

Yes, I have spoken about Annick Goutal (1948-99) before. We have done days of the Annick Goutal bio and fragrance story (Bio, Frag#1, Frag#2, Frag #3; <<< jump back) and I have used some of the same words here because they are as true now as then (they are in italics).

Photo Stolen fanpop

Songes EdT was my first Annick Goutal FBW fragrance. When the sample arrived I loved it so much I sprayed it on all and sundry till it ran dry just so they could experience the enormous grand white floral opening. What a fragrance! Designed around a dusk ramble on Camille Goutal’s honeymoon and the frangipani’s nighttime scent song of dreams.

Songes means dreams and I think it is an interesting choice of a name for a fragrance built around the scent of frangipani at dusk. It opens so full and spectacularly, not dreamy at all. White flowers pumping out their glorious, decadent fragrance. White night flowers have something so special and glorious that whenever I put this voluptuous fragrance on I almost swoon with delight. A bold fragrance, with solid strength and sillage, unlike most AG perfumes Songes has excellent lasting power too. From spritz to gone is around 4-6 hours for me depending on my day. Along with the flowers I get lovely inedible vanilla, almost amber-ish, and a soft incense note that I’ve never noticed before but this morning I was burning incense and here it is repeated. Halfway through there is a very human element that comes and goes, like clean mouth breath. The whole time I’ve been wearing this my mind keeps saying, “Oh, this is lovely, why don’t I wear this more often?” It’s now got fridge front and centre.

Photo Stolen from escentual-com

The Annick Goutal website says

The twilight in Tahiti, transcending into a inspiring combination of frangipani and tiare flowers.
Creation date : 2005
Olfactory family : Floral, oriental, amber 
(Frangipani, Tiare flower, Sambac jasmine absolute, ylang-ylang absolute, olibanum, French vanilla absolute, sandalwood, amber)

The Perfume Shrine  and NowSmellThis do excellent reviews and Fragrantica for notes and accords.

I have enjoyed bringing you Songes again, do you have a favourite Annick Goutal fragrance? Which one and why?
Portia xx

Bud Parfums “Gamekeeper” Review; Thursday GIVEAWAY COMPETITION

Hello everyone,

Evie C’s super interview with Howard Jarvis on Monday reminded me I haven’t reviewed any of the samples I ordered from Bud Parfums. What a ning-nong I am sometimes, so I thought as a part down-payment on my full Bud Parfums story I’d give you a sneaky peek at one of my favourite scents from the range.


“Then, one day, a lovely sunny day with tufts of primroses under the hazels, and many violets dotting the paths, she came in the afternoon to the coops and there was one tiny, tiny perky chicken tinily prancing round in front of a coop.
The keeper, squatting beside her, was also watching with an amused face the bold little bird in her hands. Suddenly he saw a tear fall on to her wrist.
And he stood up, and stood away, moving to the other coop. For suddenly he was aware of the old flame shooting and leaping up in his loins, that he had hoped was quiescent for ever. He laid his hand on her shoulder, and softly, gently, it began to travel down the curve of her back, blindly, with a blind stroking motion, to the curve of her crouching loins. “Shall you come to the hut?” he said, in a quiet, neutral voice.”
‘Lady Chatterley’s Lover’ by D.H.Lawrence

Richard Ansdell’s English Gamekeeper  via goldenagepaintings

This is how Gamekeeper is introduced on the Bud Parfums website and strangely it fits. There is the creak and crack of citrus branch, also the fruit, juice and leaf, humus rich oakmoss, warming resinous labdanum, the musk and clean bright patchouli round the whole lovely, sexy concert out. In truth I don’t know what palmarosa oils smell like so I can’t attest to their inclusion (apparently it smells like Geranium Leaf and is used instead of endangered Rosewood). The fragrances don’t really form a pyramid within Gamekeeper, they are more like tendrils of scent interwoven that spike up occasionally through the life of the scent story, you think they’ve gone but back they come changed, lightened or darkened, in different combinations. This is like a book where firstly you are introduced to all the characters, then throughout they are placed together in different groupings or sometimes nearly alone.

Although this is marketed as a masculine, and there are moments of truly manly cologne-ish glory, this seems to me like a fragrance that would work deliciously and decorously on women, there is a flapper feel to Gamekeeper. It’s very sexy, almost sexual, and has a light skank alert that I find riveting. As if the fragrance has gone inside the cottage with them to partake in the fun but not stayed till the end.

The website and Fragrantica give the same information.

If you go to the Bud Parfums website choose any size refill and it will take you to the fragrance lists. Also, bottle purchase is separate, such a wonderful idea, so you get to choose. AWESOME!

I’ll finish up this review with the first gamekeeper to steal my heart, Rupert Graves played D H Lawrence’s sublimely delicious gay gamekeeper in the movie Maurice. I spent years searching for just such a specimen, and while the search was rewarding in and of itself, the closest I have ever come is now a blogger himself, the one who inspired me to start writing this blog. I hope he’s reading.

Rupert Graves, Maurice 1987 Stolen from IMDb

Another excellent and enjoyable week here for me, I hope for you too, and we’ve looked at a lovely bunch of fragrances. Here’s you chance to win a small selection of them. In fact, this week there are 6 great reasons to enter our….


In honour of our Annick Goutal Review we are putting a 1.5ml spray decant of Annick Goutal’s Passion in
From Sunday Quicksniff Reviews 3ml spray decant of Fracas for Men by Robert Piguet
and 1.5ml spray decant of Eau Mega by Viktor & Rolf
Evie C did a lovely interview with Howard Jarvis from Bud Pafums so a 1.5ml spray decant of Bud Parfums Gamekeeper
and lastly, the remains of my by Kilian Water Calligraphy manufacturers sample
and Aedes de Venustas EdP sample from the Extraordinaries That Arrived By Post

Plus P&H anywhere in the world.

How do you win? Simply leave a short comment on your favourite gamekeeper, in life, film, novel or story, or if that’s too hard just leave a Hello in the comments. I do love to read your contributions though so do try.

If you win you must get in touch by Wednesday 23.5.12 or I’ll give your prize to someone else. As TARA didn’t get in touch last week her prize will go to Penny Cascio.

See you all tomorrow,

Portia xx

Annick Goutal Reviews III

Hey all,

Don’t forget click here to enter our COMPETITION GIVEAWAY

Last month we did a 3 day epic Annich Goutal story that talked about the woman, her family and the business (Annick Goutal Story) then we went on to review some of the houses better known and loved fragrances (AG Reviews #1, AG Reviews #2) but there are so many more in this lovely collection that I felt the need to show you three more. Here is a link to the Annick Goutal site, but I have also found some great deals on FragranceNet and Parfum1. In Australia if you are desperately looking for Mother’s day, David Jones has a selection of Annick Goutal and there is something for everyone in the range.

Ambre Fetiche: Yes, we had the lovely Dionne from Beauty On The Outside give us a glowing report but at the time I had not smelled it. Well I went straight to the Surrender To Chance site and ordered 5ml, while I was there taking a sneaky peek (and purchase) at the Daily Chance specials, He He. This starts out raw and sexy, anyone whose personality is strong enough to carry such a statement scent will smell amazing wearing Ambre Fetiche; men, women and inbetweenies. I am sure I’ve smelled a woman wearing this at the local mini mall and remember registering olfactory delight. My nose gets loads of incense, balms and leathers right from the outset, almost a clean synthetic oud smell without the cow poo backdrop. It’s rich and ambrosial, there is a honeyed sweetness here too alongside the vanilla. After such a bam bam bam start we settle into a very comfortable, soft and warm leathery vanilla. This is haute couture gown, frock and jeans wear if you want to smell warm, delicious and sexy.

Fragrantica or Anick Goutal’s site says

Classic and modern at the same time, a very textured and sensual interpretation of the amber.

  • Creation date : 2007
  • Olfactory family : Amber, Vanilla, Leather (Frankincense, labdanum, styrax – Benzoin, absolute of iris – Vanilla, geranium, patchouli, Russian leather)

Un Matin d’Orage (A Morning Of Storm): “OH MY GOD! I LOVE THIS!” is what I say in my head every time I spritz myself with Un Matin d’Orage. Does it smell like a stormy morning to me? No. Maybe the sunshine an hour after a stormy morning, when all the flowers are getting their scent on as if to make up for lost time. The lemon and ginger are so fresh, green and crisp, the warm jasmine as it saunters in swinging its hips is doing sexy dances with the gardenia and magnolia (I wouldn’t know what champaca smelt like if you hit me with it but it’s name does remind me of the hairy guy in Star Wars, I’m pretty sure I can’t smell him though) calling, yearning, begging you to come closer and sniff deeply and luxuriously, the sandalwood giving a creamy and delicious base for this all to float above. This smells like money to me, loads of it.

Fragrantica or Anick Goutal’s site says

The perfume of a flower of gardenia floating in the mist of a Japanese garden.

  • Creation date : 2009
  • Olfactory family : Floral, fresh, white flowers (Sicilian lemon, green perilla leaves, ginger, magnolia, jasmine Sambac, Indonesian champaca)

Passion: Passion was the Annick Goutal I thought I would definitely love, Love, LOVE!!! And to an extent, I do. Like a very excited young lover the party is over long before I’m ready for it to finish. The opening is spectacular, all white flowers, broken leaves and stem and as it warms up the ylang-ylang and jasmine bring some vanilla with them for a very short sashay past my nostrils and then the whole shebang is eaten by my skin. This is not what I’d hoped for. At times like this I feel jealousy for those lucky enough to have scent keeping skin, rather than scent eating skin. It does make Passion a super good choice for days when I want a short sharp burst of delicious before moving on to something else, or for a nap fragrance so I can enjoy the ride and wake up ready for new scent vistas. This was the first fragrance Annick Goutal made for herself.

Fragrantica or Annick Goutal’s site says

The mystery intoxicating of chypre accented by Egyptian jasmine and Grasse tuberose.

  • Creation date : 1983
  • Olfactory family : Floral (Jasmine, ylang-ylang, tomato leave, tuberose, patchouli, oakmoss, vanilla)

Thanks for coming along for the ride again today. I love the Annick Goutal range so there will be another update soon. I did notice a new blue fragrance on the site and am intrigued. Hmmm, do you have a favourite Annick Goutal? Is there one I should try but haven’t? I’d love to read your thoughts so leave a comment.

I hope you have a happy and safe weekend.

Portia xx

All the pictures today are stolen from Fragrantica, except the Annick Goutal image from multibrand. AustralianPerfumeJunkies is not affiliated with any of the businesses talked about or recommended, except as a customer.

Annick Goutal Reviews #II

Following on from our mini life story and history of Annick Goutal on Wednesday, and our reviews yesterday, we have 3 more reviews and an extract from a fellow perfumista’s comments.


L’Eau d’Hadrien

This is citrus, but not the modern candied and tortured variety. Fresh, vibrant and alive citrus plucked directly from the tree, leaves too. Like a basket of citrus, all sorts, but warmed by the ylang ylang and sharpened by the cypress. It was the first fragrance made for the line back in 1981, apparently also an homage to Marguerite Yourcenar’s novel “Memoirs of Hadrien”, which I’ve not read, or heard of, but just ordered it from BookDepository for AUS$13 incl delivery to my door! Unfortunately, L’Eau d’Hadrien leaves me cold. Too nice, too colognesque, too nothing, yes it’s fresh and a little zesty but I want more. Sorry Annick Goutal, I know it’s your best seller and quite pretty but not for me.

UPDATE: Today while at group pedicure and lunch I gave my sample of L’Eau d’Hadrien to a girlfriend. We all tried it on, including me, and though it lasted less than an hour on us there was a delicious fresh dry down that I had missed before on just me. It was a soft and delicious skin scent. Sorry L’Eau d’Hadrien, you are better than I thought. Of course my friend was THRILLED!

Check out A Smelly Blog the comments are good too, Fragrantica here

The Annick Goutal site says

A symphony of glistening, refreshing citrus notes, orchestrated through the Sicilian lemon.
Creation date : 1981
Olfactory family : Citrus (Sicilian lemon, citron, grapefruit, green mandarine, cypress, aldehyde notes, ylang-ylang)

Ce Soir Ou Jamais (Tonight or Never)

This opens like the most delicious old fashioned rose, truly bittersweet, almost honeyed in its sweet intensity but packing a bark and leaf grain tartness. My BFF Kath’s father has roses that smell like this; sweet, dark and bitter all at once. I am not a soliflorous (I know, not a word) person. Give me a bouquet and then twist it a bit and then TURN THE SMELL UP! Make it enormous please. Which is why I am astounded at my love for this enchanting and bewitching rose soliflor. It is calm yet mysterious and lasts for ages on my skin, I can still smell delicious traces of it lingering next morning. It is polarising though. Last night while hosting Turbo Trivia I wore Ce Soir Ou Jamais and had 2 lovely unsolicited compliments and one, “OMG! What is that you have on? Yuck!.” Win some, lose some. I did have to remind the rude one that, in fact, I was wearing it for my own enjoyment and she could continue to wear her Avon (which I admit smelled really, REALLY good on her. It was yummy) for ever.

Perfume Smellin Things really understands the rose world and does a super review, Fragrantica is here.

The Annick Goutal site says

The scent of pure rose, breathtaking and elegant in its femininity
Creation date : 1999
Olfactory family : Floral (Turkish rose, ambrette seed, and a blend of essences kept secret…)

Eau de Camille

I love Eau de Camille too. I had a girlfriend during our teenage years and this scent reminds me of her every time I wear it. It begins sparse and almost spiky like cutting the ivy back every year at autumn and sweetens mildly as you get to know it and it warms on your skin, then gone. Not much longevity but pretty, vivacious and sparkly while it lasts nonetheless. Just like youth. Eau de Camille was the first fragrance that Annick Goutal created especially for her daughter Camille when she was 8 years old.

SweetDiva has this to say and Fragrantica

The Annick Goutal site says

Green, like an ivy garden, as fresh as a dewy morning
Creation date : 1983
Olfactory family : Floral, green (Ivy, privet tree, honeysuckle, seringa, cut grass)

Ambre Fetiche

I have never smelled Ambre Fetiche but I have a rave review from my comments strings. The lovely Dionne from BeautyOnTheOutside (BOTO) had this to say about it, I am now looking (lemming like) for a decent priced bottle but it looks discontinued around here.

A recent discovery for me was how much Annick Goutal’s Ambre Fétiche calms me down. I got a generous sample about a month ago from Dee, and put it on on a Monday morning when I was soooo sick of the gloom and overcast and snow (meanwhile a whole bunch of blogs were all “Let’s talk about perfume for spring while we skip through the daisies…” which didn’t help), and was majorly grumpy. Something about that amber/incense combo just made me slow down and find peace. The other part of the story is that I reapplied it Monday night to show The Engineer, he took one sniff and said, “I want you to buy that.” In my two years of being a perfumista, he’s never had that reaction before.

Bought a 100ml of it the following day.

If you need any more reason than that to go shopping Fragrantica has the details

The Annick Goutal site says

Classic and modern at the same time, a very textured and sensual interpretation of the amber.
Creation date : 2007
Olfactory family : Amber, Vanilla, Leather (Frankincense, labdanum, styrax – Benzoin, absolute of iris – Vanilla, geranium, patchouli, Russian leather)

I hope you’ve enjoyed our 3 days of Annick Goutal. it has been our pleasure to bring it to you.

Portia xx

Annick Goutal Reviews #I

Hey, Hey All,

Yesterday I became completely sidetracked by the Annick Goutal story. I wish now I had taken a month to really research her and the magnificent job she did creating a niche perfume company that went global. Awe inspiring. One day there will be a book, mini series or movie about the rise and rise of an indomitable spirit. Does anybody remember meeting her? Have an anecdote to share? Please leave it in the comments, good or bad, so I can get a fuller picture of who Annick Goutal was.

Photo Stolen from multi-brand

For now, all I have is her fragrances to remember her by. I have 6 in my collection so far (3 bottles, 3 decants) but I can feel already that I would like to at least sample the range. You can have 3 reviews today and three tomorrow.

Eau de Sud EDT

This was my first meeting with an Annick Goutal fragrance. The scentbloggosphere somewhere told me this was the go to fragrance for the whole range and it was fairly indicative of the general style of fragrance produced at Annick Goutal, though I think the range has quite a lot more light and shade than that. Having reviewed it earlier this month I won’t bore you again but it is a bright citrus that softens to a vanilla herbal citrus as it wears.

Photo Stolen from 99perfume.com

The Annick Goutal website says,

The sparkling freshness of citrus fruits ripened under the warmth of the Mediterranean sun.
Creation date : 1997
Olfactory family : Citrus, Chypre, Green (Bergamot, Persian lime, grapefruit, mandarine, verbena, peppermint, basil, hint of jasmine and vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss)

Songes EDT (Dreams)

Songes was my first Annick Goutal FBW fragrance. When the sample arrived I loved it so much I sprayed it on all and sundry till it ran dry just so they could experience the enormous grand white floral opening. What a fragrance! Designed around a dusk ramble on Camille Goutal’s honeymoon and the frangipani’s nighttime scent song of dreams.

Photo Stolen from escentual-com

The Annick Goutal website says

The twilight in Tahiti, transcending into a inspiring combination of frangipani and tiare flowers.
Creation date : 2005
Olfactory family : Floral, oriental, amber (Frangipani, Tiare flower, Sambac jasmine absolute, ylang-ylang absolute, olibanum, French vanilla absolute, sandalwood, amber)

The Perfume Shrine reviews and Fragrantica for notes and accords

Mandragore EDT

This is a fragrance I had tried and loved but been annoyed by its lack of staying power on my scent hungry skin. Finding it at a knock down price online I couldn’t resist a purchase. It is a hot and spicy citrus that lasts a maximum of 2 hours on me. the ride is fun though. Camille Goutal wanted this fragrance to reference her love of fairies and magic as a child, and the bright fun and dark depths of current fiction and film that her own children were enjoying. It doesn’t give me particularly dark and deep depths but I can sense the fun and wonder of white magic lurking here. It’s almost cologne-esque on me. If you want something darker and deeper the Annick Goutal Mandragore Pourpe is for you.

Photo Stolen from stylehive.com

The Annick Goutal website says

A burst of energy brought by the liveliness of the aromatic notes.
Creation date : 2005
Olfactory family : Citrus, aromatic, spicy (Bergamot, blackpepper, peppermint, star anis, boxwood, ginger, sage, iris, ciste roots, labdanum)

Bois De Jasmine and Now Smell This review and Fragrantica does its thing.

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading some of Annick Goutal’s masterpieces reviewed. Three more tomorrow.


So for today’s Thursday Competition Giveaway please leave us a comment on a perfumer who has inspired you in some way. It could be Guerlain, Chanel, Jennifer Lopez, Karine Dubreuil, David Beckham, Alberto Morillas, Loc Dong, Patti LaBelle or Andy Tauer. Anybody who has put their name to a perfume. Maybe their dedication, lifestyle, car, a scent that changed you, pet, cooking, scent history, breakaway or interesting choices. Whatever! Who; and how did they inspire you? Easy Peasy!!

This weeks swag includes;
NB all measures are approximate.

1ml spray remains of manufacturers sample Eau de Maroc EDP by Aftelier Perfumes

1.5ml spray decant Mandgradore EDT by Annick Goutal

1.5ml spray decant Carriere EDP by Gendarme

1.5mml spray decant Muscho Nobile EDT by Nobile 1942

and a SURPRISE 1.5ml spray decant that you’ll find out about tomorrow

Go to it gang. winner will be judged on Saturday 10pm-ish Australian EST

Annick Goutal Story

Annick Goutal Parfums was created in 1981 by a young lady, brought up in a chocolatier’s household, rebelling against a career as a pianist. After fleeing the rigour of piano for modeling she met a man and soon found herself alone with a baby (her daughter Camille). Next she was diagnosed with breast cancer and married her childhood sweetheart.
Photo Stolen from multi-brand
Her first venture into beauty was a skin cream business with a friend and Goutal  felt they were missing two things, fragrance and packaging. “My fingers remembered”, she says, reflecting on her father’s confectionery. “I had acquired a great manual facility thanks to all the chocolate arranging. I had the idea of presenting the pots of cream like dainty packets of sweets. In beautiful handwriting we inscribed hundreds of tags to go with the bags”. After an encounter in 1977 with perfumer Henri Sorsana while talking of perfuming some creams, Goutal spent the next seven years memorising ingredients, discovering a talent and honing her skills, culminating in the creation of brand “Annick Goutal Parfums”.
Photo Stolen from ParisPerfect
Her boutique opened in 1980 on Rue de Bellechasse, presenting her first fragrances Folavril, Passion and Eau d’Hadrien which has become the most successful perfume in the Annick Goutal range. In time, as her talent, client list and reputation grew, customers and journalist friends spread the word of something wonderful happening in Paris. “It is very rare that a perfume creator can be free, because they are always linked to a big perfume company”, said Goutal. In the age of the corporate perfumer she provided a truly bespoke service. “I have always had complete freedom… It is like making music by myself”.
Photo Stolen from Escentual
“When my daughter Camille was seven, she was up on the terrace feeling the ivy and saying: “Maman, I want a fragrance like this.” So she was the inspiration for Eau de Camille-honeysuckle and privet tree mingle with freshly cut grass”. Her stepdaughter Charlotte wanted something less naive, more sophisticated, so Goutal used mimosa and cocoa. “This makes Eau de Charlotte a bit more gourmand…And for my husband (cellist Alain Meunier), I created Sables…”
Camille Goutal Photo Stolen from Vanity Fair

By 1985, the Taittinger group merged with and invested heavily in exposing Annick Goutal Parfums, both in France and abroad. The brand is extremely successful in the USA and was ranked number one in Saks and Neiman Marcus, they also began to export to Asia and European markets.

Annick Goutal added new fragrances with less citrus directions in 1996 such as Grand Amour, Eau du Sud, Petite Chérie, and Ce Soir ou Jamais and a range of candles and home sprays.

Photo Stolen from sassisamblog

In 1999 at the age of 53 Annick Goutal passed away. After, Brigitte Taittinger entrusted Camille Goutal (Annick Goutal’s Daughter) and Isabelle Doyen (a longtime perfumer in the Annick Goutal company) with the company’s development and they are responsible for bringing forth Mandragore, Songes, Un Matin d’Orage, Ninfeo mio and many more, following the brands history of creativity, authenticity and excellence.

In September 2005, Starwood Capital Group acquired Taittinger Group and Annick Goutal Parfums.

By August 2011 Korean group AMORE PACIFIC had purchased Annick Goutal Parfums, they are also licensees for Lolita Lempicka and French fashion house JC de Castelbajac’s perfumes.

Photo Stolen from CafeFleurBon

Thanks for coming on an Annick Goutal journey. tomorrow we’ll meet some of the perfumes,

Portia xx

These words are barely re arranged from their original forms on Annick Goutal’s site, FragranceX, Squidoo and Fragrantica.

Don’t you love Emma Watson? Great choice for Lancome’s Midnight Rose.

Eau de Sud / Muscs Koublai Khan Reviews / GIVEAWAY COMPETITION!

Hey gang,

Today I’m trying 2 new scents

Eau De Sud by Annick Goutal

Photo Stolen from CaFleureBon

Eau de Sud according to the Annick Goutal site, and I think they’re pretty spot on;

A symphony of citrus accords melts into slightly peppery and woody notes. Mandarin orange, bergamot, verbena, mint and basil. An invigorating trail of scent that recalls the creator’s voyages to Provence and Tuscany.

It is a 1996 unisex fragrance and both the mens and womens bottles contain the same stuff, usually you can find the mens at a much better price online. Citrus is not something I wear very much so I am looking to put one in the fragrance wardrobe. It starts out beautifully tart and crisp and whipish, at about the 15 minute mark it starts to warm for me, maybe the sandalwood and vanilla making an early appearance, it has maintained a pretty linear dry down and at 2.5 hours is barely there, almost just smelling a prettier me.

As always Fragrantica is my go to for the basic notes & accords with real people reviews and Now Smell This gives a more in depth and interesting review.

Photo Stolen from BaseNotes

Musc Koublai Khan by Serge Lutens,

Sir Edward John Pointer, The visit of the Queen of Sheba to King Solomon photo stolen from AGNSW

Muscs Koublai Khan by Serge Lutens is one of the fragrances often referred to on the scentbloggosphere as a reference fragrance for sexy, dark and dirtiness. There is said to be a great disparity between the bell jar original and the export versions and unfortunately I don’t have 2 for comparison and as I am using a sample from Perfume Niche there is no way of telling which one I have. Honestly though, I don’t smell anything even remotely sexual, dirty or dark. I smell deliciously deep patchouli, amber and musk, I think. It is warm and resinous like wood that’s just been waxed and polished but it does stay that way for hours, gloriously. I like Muscs Koublai Khan a LOT!! I think I will order 10mls and really give it a whirl.

Photo Stolen from BaseNotes

Fragrantica has the important stuff and Confessions Of A Mad Perfumista and BoisDeJasmin offer 2 very different reactions to the whole mystery and mystique of this fragrance

What an awesome and fragrant week I’ve had. Just looking back through the stuff that I’ve sniffed and what you’ve read doesn’t even cover half of it. I think I should have asked Evie C if we could have called the blog ScentWhores or StinkPigs because it’s like having to write a food diary to show you how much you eat. Blogging has woken me to the fact that I am Scent-ual. I hope you are enjoying the ride.

It’s Thursday and that means GIVEAWAY COMPETITION time. you have to tell us the last perfume you tried that was full bottle worthy, why and did you buy it yet. The winner will be judged on Saturday night 7.3.12 around 10pm Sydney EST

We are giving away approximately

1.5ml JINX by Tommi Sooni decanted spray sample

1.5ml L’Eau D’Ambre by L Artisan Parfumeur decanted spray sample

1.5ml City of Angels by Royal Apothic decanted spray sample

1.5ml Fantasia de Fleurs by Creed decanted spray sample

1ml Fig by Aftelier Perfumes remains of manufacturers sample spray

plus postage and packing to anywhere in the world

ALSO you need to go and read TheCandyPerfumeBoy today he has been chhosing scents for that Nicki Minaj songstress that I LOVE!

Just for fun I’ve added this L’Instant Guerlain ad because…..