Top 5 Perfume Wishlist 2013

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Post by Madeleine

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As many of you know, I had a bit of a cleanout of my collection last weekend, thanks to the terrific APJ sniff-together at Portia’s. Early on this journey, I made the mistake that many of us do, buying stuff too quickly without ample skin time or just falling prey to the thought: “Oh my god, everyone else loves this, I need to have it.”

Well, I’ve now gone back to basics. I will only acquire full bottles of fumes that have worn the test of time, the ones that when they hit my skin again and again are greeted with an enthusiastic “YES!” Samples and decants only for the ones that intrigue and stuff I just want to test and write about.

So, let’s just pretend that last’s week’s sale gave me enough money to buy five brand new bottles. What are those loves that I need to get?

Madeleine’s Top 5 Perfume Wishlist 2013

Bubblegum Chic by James Heeley for Heeley 2011

Bubblegum Chic Fragrantica

Jasmine is one white floral that doesn’t usually agree on my skin, but here it is perfect. Bubblegum Chic is playful green jasmine made more narcotic with the addition of tuberose. The name is apt as it’s playful and vampy at the same time. It’s that nonchalant, happy girl at work that once you get to know her has a hefty dose of je ne sais quoi.

Bubblegum Chic is available at Peony Melbourne $275/50ml Extrait de Parfum and Luckyscent $230/50ml Extrait de Parfum; Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $7/.5ml

Fleurissimo by James Henry Creed for Creed 1956

Fleurissimo Fragrantica

A lovely perfumista friend said I’d love it back when I was getting started in this game. Many years and bottles later, she’s still right. Grace Kelly associations aside, this is a magnificently elegant and understated white floral that just oozes sophistication.

Fleurissimo is available at Libertine Parfumerie $259/75ml; Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3/.5ml.

Lady Caron by Richard Fraysse for Caron 2000

Lady Caron Fragrantica

Very much an unloved gem in my opinion, this perfume just makes me incredibly happy. It’s a floral chypre, but here the usual peach is replaced with raspberry, rounded out with jasmine and moss. Lady Caron is truly golden sunlight on skin. It also reminds me of those times my parents had proper dinner parties back when I was a little girl. It’s the wonderful melange of smells on my pajamas after kissing and hugging the beautifully dressed female guests. Comforting but very elegant.

Lady Caron is available at Luckyscent $95/50ml; The Perfumed Court samples start at $3/ml

Tubereuse by Richard Fraysse for Caron 2003

Tubereuse Fragrantica

You already know why thanks to my last review. But this is also very special to me for the very reason that it was the first fragrance I bought on my first romantic getaway to Paris with my gorgeous Mr M.

Tubereuse by Caron is available at LuckyScent, which has the EDP for $130/50ml and the parfum extrait for $150/15ml; Surrender to Chance has samples of the parfum starting at $5/.5ml

Tubereuse Couture by Pierre Guillame for Parfumerie Generale 2009

Tubereuse Couture Fragrantica

All you oriental/vanilla/patchouli/vetiver lovers must be shaking your heads and rolling your eyes about now, thinking “not another goddamn tuberose!!” but yes, more is more for me when it comes to the vampy flower. Tubereuse Couture like the aforementioned Caron is also a little bit of a sleeper when it comes to the genre, but it is divine. Here, sugar cane and banana leaf lend a lovely tropical vibe, but make no mistake, this is a scent for ballgowns, not the beach.

Tubereuse Couture is available at Luckyscent $100/50ml; Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $4.99/ml

So there you have it! My wishlist of loves. What would your wishlist look like?

With much love till next time!
M x

Tubereuse by Richard Fraysse for Caron 2003

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Post by Madeleine

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Hello fragrant friends!

One of the joys of this hobby is rediscovering a long-lost love. Sometimes, I will rummage around in my (highly disorganised) sample drawer, find a forgotten gem and fall head over heels all over again.

This week, that honour belonged to the gorgeous Caron Tubereuse. Such is the depth of its beauty that I am sitting here and scratching my head as to why I haven’t worn it for so long and moreover, why I haven’t replaced my full bottle.

Tubereuse by Caron 2003

Tubereuse Caron FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tuberose, narcissus, citruses
Heart: Tuberose, freesia, jasmine, apricot, peach
Base: Vanilla

Caron’s Tubereuse doesn’t get a whole lot of share of the tuberose chatter on the blogosphere given the omnipotence of the trinity of Tubereuse Criminelle, Carnal Flower and Fracas, but in my opinion, it has a whole lot to add to the conversation.

What it adds is this: a totally different take on the narcotic white flower. If the aforementioned trio are like listening to a bold and beautiful coloratura, then Caron’s Tubereuse is like listening to Mozart being played by a string quartet. Tubereuse is a refined, elegant and almost fragile take on the flower more known as a “take-no-prisoners” diva. It’s tuberose in muted pastel shades; the flower taken in soft focus.

Tubereuse Caron MorgueFilePhoto Stolen MorgueFile

Tubereuse opens like a ray of sunshine on a cold spring day. The tuberose here is slightly heady, clear and warm: a radiant glowing yellow. After a while, subtle jasmine lends the composition a sweet, musky vibe, tempering the buttery richness of the tuberose and giving the perfume its well-mannered feel. It is sweet and full, but remains refined and soft and somewhat innocent. Caron’s signature base lends a dark, almost melancholic quality to the scent in the drydown. It adds a rich, velvety feel to the brightness of the tuberose and jasmine.

If Fracas, Tubereuse Criminelle and Carnal Flower are like your best friends at a party – the ones who you crack a joke and have a few laughs with over a couple of glasses of wine – Caron’s Tubereuse is the elegant lady standing in the corner. She’s unassuming, dressed in a simple champagne sheath, hair pulled back with a lick of mascara and lipstick and drinking a gin and tonic. She may be in the background, but you just can’t help but notice her. You’ll have to make sure to go over to talk to her before you leave. She may be quiet, but she is an enigma.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPhoto Stolen MorgueFile

As my Mum always told me, “You have to watch the quiet ones.” Caron’s Tubereuse may not be as loud as her contemporaries, but she is certainly well worth watching.

Further reading: Bois De Jasmin and Pink Manhattan
LuckyScent has the EDP for $130/50ml and the parfum extrait for $150/15ml.
Surrender to Chance has samples of the parfum starting at $5/.5ml

Have you tried Caron’s Tubereuse? Are there any other underrated tuberoses in your opinion? Is there a long lost love that you’ve recently rediscovered?
With much love till next time!

M xx

Leaving for India! What fragrances did I pack?

Hey Crew,

It’s time to pack bags and jet off again.I have written and sent all my Trivias to the girls. There are some REALLY curly Q&A this time ladies. The APJ family has worked overtime to make sure all their contributions are ready to launch while I’m gone, they’ve all been edited and pictures, notes and all the frills have been added and linked. THANK YOU GUYS!! My clothes are all washed, the beds are changed, food has been bought, prepared and frozen and I am almost ready to go. The plane leaves at 10.15 and I am writing to you from 2pm. How organised is that? Normally I’m throwing crap in my bags as we should be leaving.

incredible-india_1822 incredible-india-1 Taj Mahal

This trip I know there wont be much fragrance shopping like in Europe or LA sop I’ve decided to do a decant set for my travels 5ml & 8ml. It’s always so hard to choose and today is no exception. So what made the cut?

Ava Luxe Tuberose Diabolique Parfum
Caron Royal Bain de Caron
L’Artisan Parfumeur Cote d’Amour
Iunx Splash Forte Friction de Iunx
Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur de Male
Tauer L’Air Du Desert Marocain

I am also taking from Neela Vermeire Creations a bottle of Bombay Bling. How could I not? And a Vintage Chanel No 5 Parfum.

'Incredible_India'

So I just watched this video below and I’m crying like a baby, its been nearly three years since I’ve been back to India am I’m so excited to get back and see my buddy and his family and the magic that is India. I can almost smell it it’s so real in this little Incredible India ad. I can’t believe I’m going back……

See you tomorrow!!
Portia xxx

All photos stolen from the Incredible India Campaigns

Fleur De Rocaille by for Caron 1993

Hello GORGEOUS!!

I have quite a lot of the Caron fragrances. I like the way they smell, that they seem to be joined, the bottles and the packaging. There is something glamorous about the whole Caron thing that lures me in. I think it is a neglected icon that needs a Tom Ford to sweep in and resurrect their staus.

Fleur De Rocaille by for Caron 1993

FleurDeRocaille FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, gardenia, violet
Heart: Carnation, iris, rose, ylang ylang, lilac, jasmine, lily of the valley, mimosa
Base: Oakmoss, musk, cedar, amber, sandalwood

Fleur De Rocaille means flowering rock garden or flower of rubble. So, of course, I expected to be floated away on a hefty sparkling floral with stark and challenging depths that floated high and above a labdanum (rock rose) base. I expected goat, grass, greenery and twisted & tortured woods.

What did I get, the air at high altitude, it opens fizzy like a life saver mint which fits with how I expect the air to smell in a rock garden and then becomes the softest, sweetest and most fleeting fragrance I have in my memory. The note list reads like a 1980’s blockbuster and I am sadly deflated. Having said that there is a lovely section from about 30mins to 1.5 hours that to me is a soft lily, not the very fragrant ones, and some mimosa, after that I get sugar, something quietly green and amber but so sparse as to almost not be there. I wonder if this was made with the Chinese and Japanese markets in mind?

If you hate perfume but feel the need to have something on your dresser and that you must spritz before you leave the house then this is for you. You will not be overwhelmed, nobody will complain of you skunking even an elevator after a double quadruple spritz. I use the last 3 ml of my 5ml decant today in one wearing and only noticed that I was wearing fragrance intermittently, and no one else commented at all.

RockGardenDesigns amazing-home-designPhoto Stolen AmazingHomeDesign

Further reading UnseenCenser
FragranceNet has 100ml around $45
MyPerfumeSamples has $2/ml or $7/5ml which is what I bought

I love the Caron vibe but feel it’s fading, with the new regulations I wonder how these houses will survive. What do you think? Will we miss the old ways in 20 years or will the people then be immune to it?
See you tomorrow,
Portia xx

Bellodgia EdP, Parfum & Oil by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1927

Hey Hey Stink Monkeys,

Do you ever fall so in love with a fragrance you want to own EVERY available strength and vintage? I have a couple of fragrances that that has been the case for me. Guerlain Shalimar, CHANEL No 5, Versace Blonde, Boucheron Trouble and

Bellodgia EdT, EdP, Parfum & Oil by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1927

Bellodgia FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Carnation and rose
Heart: Jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and violet
Base: Musk, clove, vanilla and sandalwood.

As you may have guessed by the heading I have different versions of this amazing fragrance. This is the order I fell in love with them: EdT, EdP, Parfum and then by luckiest chance the original Oil. I will often layer Bellodgia with oil on wrists, parfum behind knees and EdP on chest, my EdT has about 2 sprays left and never gets pulled out any more, though I did just order a new 30ml one with the purple leather coating, YUMMY. Each one is from a different vintage by the smell of them and the oil is absolutely killer, even the slightest scraping will keep me deeply fragrant with sillage that fills a room in moments. You can smell it on your person but it stealthily creeps around a room until it takes over and becomes the rooms scent, then it lingers for hours.

Funnily, Bellodgia was released as a softer, less in your face sister to much of the Caron work. Nowadays you would be hard pressed to find a young girl willing to be so fragrant and bombastic. My how times have changed. Though Bellodgia has been reformulated there is still a very good nod to the oldest of my collection, the oil which was completely sealed when I received it so not too much air let in to destroy it. I love the opening, so rich with promise and pungent.The crisp minty crackle of carnation cutting through the floral bouquet and vanilla. There is a real rose note that is both spiced and sweet, I think the bouquet is amped towards making a lifelike but still cryptic version of rose, the cloves from the base help too.

I don’t really get the white flowers in the heart but I think that’s my terrible nose, the rose is superstar on my skin and the violet, earthy green and fresh, seems to serve as a counterpoint rather than a feature. Then into the warm and deep dry down where I think Bellodgia really comes into its own, the musk (and I think the oil has the real deal) vanilla and woods all seem to lay a deep downbeat while this fantastical spicy rose maintains its hold for hours and hours.

Do you want to feel like a fabulous flapper, a naughty, nascent beauty ready to pounce upon an unsuspecting world? Bellodgia will definitely put you in the mood, no matter how unlikely we are ever to fit into that category. Dreaming is free.

Caron Bellodgia Flappers StyleIconicPhoto Stolen StyleIconic

Further reading BoisDeJasmin and Olfactoria’sTravels
EssentialMall has the purple leather encased 30ml EdT for $33
SurrenderToChance has a selection of Bellodgia including vintage EdT, EdP & Parfum

Till tomorrow, we hope all is light and joy in your house. If it’s not though, like the rainy weather it will clear. Promise!!
Portia xxx

Royal Bain De Caron EdT by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1941

Hello Frag Hags,

I love a fragrancce that comes with a could-be-true story. It’s a great ice breaker, predisposes me to want to like the frag and lets me know some reasons why it may smell like it does. Anybody not frag obsessed, or a Perfume Bore as my BFF calls me when I get started, will think that I’m mental but it does give perspective and added interest, for me anyway. Just so you know I am reviewing a modern iteration 125ml EdT that cost me less than some 3ml decants I’ve bought recently.

Royal Bain de Caron by Caron 1941

RoyalBainDeCaron FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lilac, rose
Heart: Opoponax, benzoin, incense
Base: Sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla, cedar

This post was inspired by BoisDeJasmin: Simple Summer Pleasures: Cologne Bath. I was so impressed by the idea of putting a couple of tablespoons of cologne into the bath and remembered reading about how this was designed for some millionaire, at a time when that meant something, who wanted his bath to smell like the champagne (Champagne was the original name but the word became unusable)  he had been bathing in. So it was an easy match, even though Royal Bain de Caron is an EdT it doesn’t matter. Remember, when I read this in the Northern Hemisphere it was summer but down here in Oz we were in the grip of winter and I wanted something not quite so fresh and light for my bath.

Royal Bain de Caron opens with a sparkling, warm, boozy richness that is more like cognac than champagne but it’s probably a hark back to the days of champagne being super dooper sweet. The vanilla, amber and sandalwood all give a spectacular overture which then leads to a very sweet amber-ish floral bouquet that merely hints at the lilac and rose in the notes list because all the resins completely engulf the florals on my skin. Almost linear after the first rush and decidedly unisex, it smells darker, richer and spicier on TSO Jin than it does me. If I spritz myself after the bath with a decanted atomiser of Royal Bain de Caron the fragrance life is around 5-7 hours depending on the day and remains warm and inviting to the very end.

A great statement fragrance, warm and sparkling. I think too fragrant for office work and definitely way too in your face for perfume-phobic workplaces, still it would not be overly intrusive for recreational closeness like theatre, cinema or dinner.

TheBath AlfredStevens Art.comTheBath by AlfredStevens Stolen Art.com

Further reading EauMG and PerfumeSmellingThings
FragranceNet has 125ml/$28 BARGAIN!!
ThePerfumedCourt starts at $3/ml

Do you like to be completely and utterly decadent sometimes? What is your favourite way to feel ridiculously luxe on a budget?

Hopefully the world is giving you lemonade.
Till tomorrow,
Portia xx

Portia’s Christmas For The Boys Shopping Guide

Hello Fraught Funies,

OMG!! How is it Christmas again? I used to be a done all my Christmas Shopping by the end of the July Sales kinda person but the last few years I have put it off and put it off and then end up in a mad December scramble. I am composing a list of the things I’d like to grab for my partner Jin this year and letting you look over my shoulder as I do it. He will probably only get one from this list as I have a couple of other things in mind to add in.

Portia’s Christmas For The Boys Shopping Guide

CasswellMasseySandalwoodSoap GraysOnlinePhoto Stolen GraysOnline

Caswell – Massey Sandalwood Soap 3 x 5.8oz: This is a well packaged and deliciously scented set of Sandalwood smelling soaps. They act as a great base for loads of mens fragrances and give back a little of the rich buttery sandalwood missing from so many modern incarnations. There is also a 243ml body lotion pump pack. They both come in boxes for ease of wrapping. At FragranceNet I found the pair of them after discount for under $35

Yatagan eBay

Caron, Yatagan EdT: Named after the curve bladed Turkish sabre Yatagan is a green, woodsy, leather, spice and sweat mixture that is surprising, interesting, masculine and dead sexy. Released back in 1976 Yatragan is a manly masterpiece for a super great price. FragranceNet has 125ml Edt spray for under $40

LorenzoVilloresiSampleSet FirstInFragragrance

Lorenzo Villoresi – Fragrance Collection – Sample Set: I found this stunning set and have been panting after it for myself. 16 x 1.5ml sprays showing a fabulous selection of the range for only €30 on FirstInFragrance and a little hint, if you are shopping Internationally you pay no tax so spending around 100 and the shipping will be the same as the saved tax. Woo Hoo!

L_Artisan_Batucada_Eau_de_Toilette_100mlPhoto Stolen L’Artisan

L’Artisan Parfumeur, Batucada EdT: Spicy, salty citrus tempered by flowers, flesh and sea in a lovely nod to cocktails and samba in Brazil on Ipanema Beach. Bright, bold, fresh and daring while being a completely modern masculine, and those engraved hexagonal bottles look so rich and have great heft in your hands. Parfum1 has 50ml for $100

JuniperSling lovelypackagePhoto Stolen lovelypackage

Penhaligon’s, Juniper Sling: Recently I was lucky enough to win a bottle of Juniper Sling from TheCandyPerfumeBoy and I can’t stop spritzing. It is a fabulously boozy cool climate forest walk that gives you a sharp slap in the face to wake you up and then warms on skin into a deliciously warm masculine clean body smell. OMG! Seriously gorgeous stuff and EssentialMall has 50ml for as little as $101. BTW The box is even more lavish looking in real life

Maître ParfumeuretGantierDiscovery FirstInFragrance

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier – Les Masculins – Discovery Set: Discover the universe of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. A choice of 15 fragrances presented in 13 ml refillable atomizers, personally I think this is ridiculously good value and look at the presentation. FirstInFragrance has this gorgeous set for €119

Pear&Olive

Slumberhouse, Pear + Olive: If you want something so completely different to anything else available, you are buying for a perfumista, want to look like you are all over the best new stuff by the coolest crews and are way ahead of the game then this is the best buy you could wish for. The juice is a surprising almost clash of sweet and savoury, is dense and light simultaneously, warm, ferocious, cool and charming and comes in a killer engraved bottle with plenty of heft that will look totally now and retro on every vanity. Get onto the Slumberhouse site where 50ml will cost $150 + $12 International Postage. this is the good shit!

inekeeveningedgedingold LibertinePhoto Stolen Libertine

INeKE, Evening Edged In Gold: I know that you wouldn’t normally pick this as a masculine fragrance but it smells terrific on my partner Jin, a spicy, floral woodsy fragrance that sizzles on him in the most alluring way and makes me want to get really close. The bottle is a beautiful work of art too. Libertine in Australia has 75ml $160 including postage

Picture 3357Photo stolen LucyScent

Amouage EdP Miniatures Men’s Gift Set: Really want to spend some money on a lavish gift? Try the six best selling Amouage Men’s Fragrances in miniatures. Each 7.5ml bottle is a perfect mini replica of the real thing. Included are: Lyric, Jubilation XXV, Reflection, Gold, Dia & Silver. Many of the world’s stores are sold out but Libertine still has some in stock for $280 including Postage

Did that help at all? It has certainly sorted some stuff out in my head. What fragrant gifts are you thinking for the men in your life?
See you tomorrow,

Portia xx

Nuit De Noel by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1922

Hey Hey Fellow Fumies,

Nuit de Noel or Christmas Night, what we call Christmas Eve today, was created in 1922 by the founder of Caron and self taught perfumer Ernest Daltroff for, it is rumoured, his paramour of many years. There is so much hype about this fragrance that calls to me, Roja Dove and Karl Lagerfeld are said to wear only this fragrance at Christmas time, it was made for the flappers of the era and that the gold band on the original extrait bottle was a nod to their headbands are just 2 of the stories. Below you’ll see the original 30ml extrait with the shagreen case and box.

Rare Vintage 1oz. Caron Nuit De Noel EXTRAIT 30 Sealed Perfume With Original BoxPhoto Stolen eBay US$295 sealed

My bottle is the current reformulation so real sandalwood is rare and oakmoss is IFRA illegal which means the heart of Nuit de Noel is largely gone or replaced with analogous chemistry but still the opening is very special and the dry down lovely.

Photo Stolen PerfumeShrine

Fragrantica gives these featured accords/notes:
Top: Ylang-ylang, tincture of rose, jasmine
Heart: Sandalwood, oak moss
Base: Musk, amber
but fails to mention the De Laire’s “Mousse de Saxe” base <Jump to PerfumeShrine opus on it

As the initial boozy vodka like scream passes in about 10 minutes, the jasmine and ylang ylang play central starring roles with a soft hint of a spicy rose underneath. As I breathe down my top it warms up beautifully with a very human warmth that could be mink-ish (or bedhead-ish) overlaying the flowers, there is still a hint of animalic skank through the flowers and the base.

I started writing this review earlier today and haven’t had a moment to come back and organise my thoughts. It’s 3-4 hours later and there is still some floral action but the amber has arrived, a slightly sweet vanillic amber filled with oriental spices, sweet but not gourmand. After the first rush this is a quiet, fleshy floral that turns very warm and cosy. Its stamina is good too, around 6 hours before I lose track and I think it might be a quiet skin scent for a while longer, some mornings I can still smell something lovely but others nothing.

Photo Stolen howtogeek

As always ThePerfumeShrine does a wonderful review with plenty of history and BoisDeJasmin looks at the way the new EdT is different from the past.
FragranceNet has 50ml around $35

Photo Stolen thepunch

Many of the comments on blogs and walls say that this fragrance has nothing to do with Christmas, well I think it has way more to do with Northern Hemisphere rather than Southern Hemisphere Christmas. Above you can see Santa and some of his helpers relaxing after their biggest night of the year on Bondi Beach in Sydney on Christmas Day, the rest of us Aussie Christians are having a feast of some sort and huddling around A/C or lying in the pool. I’m going to wear it this Christmas anyway, if it’s good enough for Karl Lagerfeld it’s good enough for me.

At AustralianPerfumeJunkies we wish an easy life for all of you, filled with great health, enough wealth and happiness, whether it’s Christmas or not, whether you’re Christian or not, everyone!
See you tomorrow,
Portia xx