Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2012

Hey there Crew,

Sometimes when I am in touch with Birgit from Olfactoria’s Travels she might mention a bottle or two that I love and she is ready to let loose, just such a one as this. I can tell she loved it for a while because there is a fair amount missing, sometimes tastes change or something along a similar vein eclipses your current bottle, a million reasons. Maybe you need to sell off a few to buy a newby, always an excellent way of keeping stuff loved and in rotation.

Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete by Guerlain 2012

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Cedar, jasmine, saffron, cardamom, laurel, oud, myrrh, patchouli, leather

BaseNotes gives theese featured accords:
Top: Laurel, Neroli
Heart: Jasmine, Patchouli, Saffron, Cedar
Base: Leather, Myrrh

Perfume Shrine tells me that Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete means Dreaming of a Summery Wood, cool summer evening maybe? Summer doesn’t really fit for me to be honest perhaps Autumn? Maybe that’s the dreaming bit? Dreaming in Autumn and Winter of the memories of a Summer wood but surrounded by the scents of winter. OK I’m on board with that. I love the beaded curtain on the bottle with tiny little Guerlain logos and bees, also the Arabic/French writing and the squarish, spare design that you can fit loads of on a shelf. Did I mention the box this comes in? It’s so ridiculously luxe all by itself.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete Guerlain Turkish Delight WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Opening up I get honeyed sweets, like baklava or sugary real Turkish Delight (some days it’s more a candied citrus) with woods and fairly early on I also get a patchouli/oudh vibe that runs baseline. Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete is woodsy and sensual, spicy, and a little waxy. It washes over me in warm, elegant waves like toffee, making everything seem fluid and the air thick. Imagine looking into a brightly lit room through 1970s amber glass, a teinte, a glow, a wash of luminous whiskey coloured grandeur. Thierry Wasser has made something regal that throws such a luscious nod to the middle east but is ensconced firmly in the heart of Paris, the oudh/patchouli clean and dinner suited. How has he made these notes into a gourmand, I seriously want to eat myself up. There are some hints of smoke and the sweaty green of cardamom/cumin adding depth and variation through Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete life.

 Turkish deLIGHTPhoto Stolen LASZLO ILYES Flickr

Through my wear I am most conscious of how amazingly international I smell. It’s as if all the sweet, delicious and pretty pieces of the middle east have been distilled into a fragrance. No dust or desert, not super sweet rose or oily, cloying, heavy and dark fragrance, no camels, tents, sand or oasis. Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete is sheer but still super fragrant, it’s like Mr Wasser has added air and space to the denseness of what we expect from the middle east. So wearable and still unusual. Guerlain from top to bottom: but 21st century Guerlain.

The deep dry down is clean sweaty skin, softest, most loved, old suede and resinous myrrh but that is far, far, far into the future. Next morning there are still viable traces of Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete. What a fragrance. Wear it everywhere if you dare.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete Guerlain Dancers BBC.UKPhoto Stolen BBC.UK

Further reading: The Non Blonde and Olfactoria’s Travels looks at the three Les Déserts d’Orient collection
PlaceVendome in Belguim has €190/75ml and also sends to the world (Birgit bought my bottle there)
Universal Perfumes has Les Déserts d’Orient collection $276/75ml and send to the world
Surrender To Chance has Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete from $4.60/.5ml or has Les Déserts d’Orient 3 x .5ml from $13

Have you tried any of the three Les Déserts d’Orient? What was your favourite? Would you like to?
Till tomorrow we at APJ wish you health, wealth and happiness, and the ability to see them all when they come.
Portia xx


L’Heure Bleue EdP by Raymond Guerlain 1912

Hey there Perfumed Peeps,

Tonight I’m giving my fresh bathed skin L’Heure Bleue,  the modern EdP from Madeleine’s reject pile. I am totally ignoring my many other new frags for Madeleine’s unloved babies, they are seeing more wear time than anything else right now, even though I’ve still not finished opening bottles from my various travels this year. I am officially a TRAGIC, GREEDY, FRAG HOARDER!!!

L’Heure Bleue EdP (2011) by Raymond Guerlain 1912

L'Heure Bleue Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, neroli, aniseed, bergamot, coriander
Heart: Bulgarian rose, carnation, tuberose, violet, cloves, ylang, orchid, heliotrope, neroli
Base: Vanilla, Tonka bean, iris, musk, vetiver, sandalwood, benzoin

There has been much talk of reformulation, IFRA regs etc, especially around some of our long term favourite and historical hallmark perfumes. L’Heure Bleue is a case in point, especially because last year was its centenary and that century has seen so many changes in fashion, materials and consumers taste. My oldest L’Heure Bleue in the collection only goes back to the 1980s and is an EdT. What happens on my skin with the modern EdP?

There is no denying that even in the 30 years across my L’Heure Bleue collection that it is changed. The opening is still definitively Guerlain, all sugared citrus candy and adding in the very slight spicy/herbal tinge. In fact for me the openings are the most similar part of the fragrance life. I can’t parse all the flowers for you but the bouquet is still gorgeous and beyond. Lighter, floatier, fluffier: the powders are silken soft and they waft gently in spring breezes compared to the heft and depth of the vintage. More floral and its lasting power is considerable less. It still has something glorious and fun, like eating PEZ in a bakery’s back alley. MMMMMMM

PEZ WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

It has had some of it’s animalics and dirty back end amputated and towards the very dry down end in about 5-6 hours, depending, I get a very clean laundry musk that first wear surprised the freakin’ shit out of me. It is nice but not something I expect from a Guerlain, maybe a Body Shop. Really, it’s not offensive, just unexpected.

Wearing the current L’Heure Bleue is fear free. I find it polite and wearable in most situations and it has moderate to low sillage now, with good wear life. I will be interested to see how it changes over the next 30 years. If I am extremely lucky.If L’Heure Bleue was released today as it is currently I think we would love it and it would probably come out in the Guerlain exclusives line, especially with DIOR’s Milly-la-Foret and CHANEL’s 28 La Pausa being popular powdery releases by the big guns.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Olfactoria’s Travels
Fragrance Shop has $74/75ml EdP
Surrencer To Chance starts at $3/ml EdP

Have you smelled any of the L’Heure Bleue formulations or strengths? Which is your favourite?
Till tomorrow, waft fragrantly,
Portia xx

GUERLAIN – “Light is in the Air” Météorites Perles New Mini Movie

Hiya Crew,

Off topic but I am loving some of the new mini movies companies are releasing for Spring/Summer 2013. Here is Guerlain’s “Light is in the Air” Météorites Perles New Mini Movie. I think it lovely and only wish it went a little longer.

Guerlain-Meteorites-juliasbeautyblogPhoto Stolen JuliasBeautyBlog

Portia xx
“Light is in the Air” Météorites Perles 2013

GUERLAIN – Gloss D’Enfer: Nails + Lips 2013 Mini Movie


Here’s some more of the Guerlain 2013 mini movie fest. This one is so fun and 50s. I love it. Makes me smile just watching and the colours really POP this season. Lucky us.

Gloss-dEnfer-Guerlain jetsetfashionmagazinePhoto Stolen jetsetfashionmagazine

Guerlain’s Spiel: Discover Gloss d’Enfer collection made of 20 shades of bare lips sensation gloss and 10 colourful nail polishes. Play with colour and shine to capture your admirers’ hearts even more than ever.

Enjoy it,
Portia xx

Chamade by Jean-Paul Guerlain 1969


Post by Madeleine


Hello fragrance friends. Hope you are well and enjoy today’s post.

Well, like any other perfume obsessive, I’m pretty unfaithful when it comes to scents. Sometimes I’ll wear several a day, let alone dozens in a week. So it’s surprised me that I have been pretty much faithful to one scent for several weeks now:

Chamade by Guerlain 1969

Chamade was created by Jean-Paul Guerlain in 1969, and it was inspired by the Francoise Sagan’s novel “La Chamade” which was later adapted into a movie starring Catherine Deneuve. The word, from French means a drumbeat signifying a retreat from war.

Chamade Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords (Ed: different in the blurb and pictures, I’ve melded):
Top: Hyacinth, Turkish rose,  jasmine, bergamot, aldehydes
Heart: Lilac, cloves, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris, galbanum, ylang-ylang, blackcurrant buds,
Base: Sandalwood, vetiver, musk, benzoin, amber, tonka bean, Tolu balsam, Peru balsam

Many others have written of the fragrance so beautifully, that I can’t really add much more to what’s been said already. However, the perfume, as many have noted, feels like a perfume in three separate acts. The first is the bright green, spring-like opening of galbanum and hyacinth at first fresh and then powdery; the second act is all about dewy rose and lilac, underpinned by juicy blackcurrant; the final act is another beast entirely, where the green rosiness segues into smooth and sweet vanilla and amber.

Chamade Guerlain TemptaliaPhoto Stolen Temptalia

I acquired my bottle of Chamade a few months ago, knowing it was hard to find here in Australia and a classic. I initially regretted my purchase and wasn’t entirely sure how I felt about it. Fast forward some time and Chamade is now so perfect to me, I’m actually wondering how I lasted without it as long as I did. The perfume is everything I’d like to think I am and everything I want in the idealized version of myself: sophisticated, elegant, intelligent, beautiful and warm. It is at once a perfect adornment whilst at the same time being innately part of me. For note, I have the EDP version.

Chamade Gown TrendsEvePhoto Stolen TrendsEve

Further reading:Bois de Jasmin and Now Smell This

SurrendertoChance has samples starting at $3/ml

Have you tried Chamade? Have you been more faithful to one fragrance lately? What perfumes are currently in rotation for you?

With much love until next time!
M x

ONE YEAR ANNIVERSARY!! Statistics and First Post Reprise!!


Tomorrow, the 18th March marks 365 days of continuous posts on AustralianPerfumeJunkies. What started out as two besties having a bash has turned into quite a going concern and I cannot believe I have stuck to it with such tenacity. Many of you have been with us from the earliest posts and I thank you for your support and sometimes forebearance. Also welcome to our newest followers, I hope you enjoy being a part of our APJ family. Your readership and comments keep us coming back to the computer every day, week and month.

A big THANK YOU goes out to all our Guest Post providers. Without you all and your amazing contributions I worry that APJ would be nothing. All of you, past and present, are amazing and I am inspired by you all every week. EvieC, Madeleine, EmmaKate, Katrina, Dionne, Suzanne R Banks, Val the Cookie Queen, Robert “Radium” Maxwell, Tim, Margeaux, Jordan River, Michael: Each of you has brought something new and amazing to APJ and I am proud and honoured that you give up precious spare time to write, sniff and sniff some more. Many of you we have welcomed into our home for wonderful meals and fragrant conversations. YOU ARE AMAZING!!

Another THANK YOU to my bestie and partner Kath and Jin, how blessed am I? Life just got a whole lot rosier now that we are all on site. Nothing I could ever write here would come close to how much I love, revere, adore you both and am grateful for your continued inclusion in my life. You are my family.

OneYear southernshopaholicPhoto Stolen SouthernShopaholic

Some stats

379 Posts
129,870 Visitors
Best Month was November 2012 – 22,525
Best Day was November 13 2012 – 1,165
Most Click Throughs from Perfume Posse, Olfactoria’s Travels, Google
Most Click Throughs to Perfume Posse, Posh Peasant, Surrender To Chance

Now I am looking forward to the next 12 months. We have some wonderful things in the pipeline and are prepped and ready to go for some others. Looking into the future is hard because it’s looking so BRIGHT!!

I wish you all Health, Wealth and Happiness on our journey together for the next twelve months.
Portia xxxx

As a reminiscence, here is our first post on fragrance

Tabac Original by Maurer & Wirtz

Cheapy McCheap! and Cheerful.

So yesterday morning we awoke very late, it was almost time to rush out the door for pedicures and then Yum Cha (or YUMMY CHA CHA CHA!). No time to decide on anything really. Raining outside, meeting besties (big HELLO to Kath & Alice & Jin), no pressure. On went super comfy new sloppy joe, jeans, thongs. Perfume, fragrance, something?? Can’t think. Can’t think. Can’t think. Reaching…….

Maurer & Wirtz Tabac Original EDT spray, modern incarnation, comes back towards me in my hand. Really brain? Really hand? Clearly my mind and body have understood what my inner self would never have said. Spray on my thorax twice, one wrist, one elbow, mash. Wait and waft…………..

An Aromatic Fougere (pronounced Foo zair but the z is almost a j like the Chinese say Beijing) and if you want the notes then Fragrantica is your spot. Woody, herbal, floral, tobacco and aldehydic are the given accords there and on my skin I get a rush of citrus and herbs at the opening, it squeals a bit, then as my skin warms the fragrance (and it does, I can feel a warm reaction, a bit like Vicks Vaporub) then the powdery iris and lavender saunter in MMMMM. By the time I am at our destination Tabac is humming along nicely with the flora, woods and herbs all whiffling up my sloppy joe each time I move. This is a perfect warm but rainy day fragrance for the casual event. At lunch I am complimented by a discerning girlfriend who is gobsmacked that something so inexpensive can be this lovely. I concur. Hours later, snuggling with my partner I can still smell a tiny and very sexy hint of musk and vanilla. So good I’ve come in to reapply and go through the story again. Now, going back to see if it works, it would on me.

PS. Worked a treat!Photo Stolen from Fragrantica

Thanks for reading,
Portia xx

Don’t Forget to enter our 1 YEAR ANNIVERSARY GIVEAWAY!!(<<JUMP)


one-year thehealthyapronPhoto Stolen thehealthyapron


Every Birthday deserves presents so we have an extraordinary prize today.

When I was in Paris in February, shopping at Guerlain on the first floor of the Galleries Lafayette, I was given a special gift with purchase that is so precious to me that it would NEVER get opened. It is a four pack of beautifully boxed Eau Imperial 40g soaps in a very desirable presentation case. This GWP was not even in the regular gift line but an exclusive gift for the people invited to Guerlain’s Christmas Party in 2012 and the last of its kind that the girl had to give away. THIS IS SPECIAL!!!

If we make 100 individuals commenting I will add in one Kerosen X Pegasus Perfumed Soap made especially for RELIEF Fundraiser made of Coconut, Palm and Castor oils from sexy John at Kerosene Fragrances as a second giveaway!!


Leave a comment below wishing us congratulations. That’s IT!

Extra Chance? Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie 12 MONTH ANNIVERSARY GIVEAWAY!! @Guerlain


Entries Close Tuesday March 19th 2013 10pm AEDST and winners will be announced in a separate post on Thursday 21st March.
Winners will be chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and TSO Jin will pick them. He doesn’t even stop watching TV to do it usually.
The winners will have till Sunday 23rd March 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or I will give the prize to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

NEW La Petite Robe Noir “Party In Paris” Movie


I LOVE the new La Petite Robe Noire movie. In honour of my being in David Jones Guerlain yesterday and how helpful the SA Penny was. She knew her stuff and was so helpful and friendlly, even inviting us to come back and chat whenever we were in town. Jin spritzed Habit Rouge which sang beautiful powdery spice on his skin for hours and I went all out for L’Heure Blue parfum. OMG! I am in love.

Please do enjoy the movie,
See you tomorrow,

Portia x

LaPetiteRobeNoir kingdomofstylePhoto Stolen kingdomofstyle

Vetiver by Jean-Paul Guerlain for Guerlain 1961/2000

Hey All,

This is one of the crazy bargains I found while on our tour of Europe. The bottle below is the one and it was hidden away in a tiny little Budapest corner parfumerie for a song. It was my first European purchase of fragrance with Dune Esprit de Parfum, which I will introduce you to soon.

Vetiver by Guerlain 1961/2000 (dates vary)

VetiverGuerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, coriander, lemon, mandarin, and neroli
Heart: Vetiver and cedar wood
Base: Tobacco, walnuts, pepper, and Tonka bean

I love the citrus opening with the coriander giving a soft herbaceousness that stops Vetiver being a citrus parody. This burst of freshness is so compelling and lasts well into the heart of the fragrance playing a sheer overlay as the earthy, grassy, wood-ish heart filters through. I had no rural connection with Vetiver until I read the Guerlain spiel below. Till then I had always associated the freshness with the sea and could detect a slightly salty twang throughout. It’s funny how suggestion works because now I smell wet grasses and earth. Morning, Vetiver by Guerlain smells like morning. A crisp sunny morning that offers some great incentive to get out from under the covers.

Not particularly long lived, I get 4 hours of being able to smell it but Jin says there is a remnant for much longer. I think a perfectly unisex fragrance that bridges the earthy, fresh and clean divide without being that modern ubiquitous sport fresh or laundry fresh. You will smell distinctively alive.

4a39e04f1ea9b,Green-FieldsPhoto Stolen SpiceWallpaper

Here is the Guerlain copy (which I think is a little overblown):

Under the veranda, he looks at a sky daubed with clouds.  The storm breaks. From the earth emanate contradictory scents. The smell of wood, intensified by summer’s humid warmth is shot through with sparkling, heady notes. He loves the feel of cool linen on his skin. He loves to be here.  He loves VETIVER and he knows why: For the authentic strength of vetiver, which reveals the soul in a single breath.

Further reading WhatMenShouldSmellLike and NowSmellThis

FragranceNet starts at 50ml/$34 before any discounts
MyPerfumeSamples has 1ml/$2 to 5ml/$7

GreenFieldsBYPharaun333 SpiceWallpaperPhoto Stolen SpiceWallpaper

Do you have a favourite Vetiver fragrance? Have you tried Guerlain’s version?

Till tomorrow,
Don’t forget to take a moment to do something you really love.
Portia xx

Cuir Beluga by Olivier Polge for Guerlain 2005

Hello Gorgeouises,

This is a fragrance I stayed away from for a long time because of its name. I thought Cuir Beluga was representing a leather and fish roe fragrance, which while interesting was not something I wanted to smell like. In my head it smelled like under the boardwalk.

Cuir Beluga by Guerlain 2005

CuirBeluga FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Mandarin, immortelle flower, leather, amber, heliotrope and vanilla.

I read on PerfumeShrine that Cuir Beluga means Whale Leather in Russian, but no whales have been hurt in the production of this modern Guerlain. Cuir Beluga is extremely pretty and not overpowering, though the first half hour you are definitely fragrant in clouds of sweet citric vanilla and a lovely soft leather. After that first rush though Cuir Beluga settles into a slow and stately fragrance that never pushes the boundaries or becomes too gourmand. A cool vanilla, a supple much loved leather and a hint of the herbaceous that is going to fade through the dry down almost the same as it is a the one hour point.

I have no comparison to Whale Leather but I can’t imagine it smells like Cuir Beluga at all.

 Gerardo Colman Lerner: Backgrounds & Textures &emdash; Whale leatherPhoto Stolen ZenFolio

Cuir Beluga is so wearable and pretty that you can spritz and forget it, smelling divine for about 5 – 6 hours. A perfect choice for non perfumistas who want to smell good without smelling clever. Does that make sense? All done in the lavish and luxe Guerlain way.

Further reading Olfactoria’sTravels & PerfumeShrine.
Cuir Beluga is available through Guerlain stores and at some department store Guerlain counters
ThePoshPeasant starts at $7/ml

Have you tried Cuir Beluga? Were you surprised by its soft and fluffy scent?
Till tomorrow wishing you only good
Portia xx