Heya Perfumistas,
Do you remember having a Kaleidoscope? My Mum knew that no matter how naughty or outrageous I was being that the Kaleidoscope would shut me up. Bored? Kaleidoscope. Cranky? Kaleidoscope. Couldn’t sleep? Kaleidoscope. It was the universal cure all for a while at Chez Turbo. Sadly it didn’t last but sometimes I wish I had one, just to remember the magic.
Manifesto by YSL Mini Movie
Jessica Chastain YSL Manifesto Ad.
Fragrantica gives these featured accords: Top: Green wave, bergamot, black currant Heart: White flowers, Sambac jasmine, lily of the valley Base: Cedar, sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean
Please enjoy the new Manifesto Mini Movie.
Portia xx
With the Christmas gift shopping window of opportunity slowly getting smaller in the lead up to Christmas do you get stuck on what to buy? Perhaps you do a Chris Cringle like my family. Sometimes I am wandering aimlessly around under pressure, amongst holiday crowds scratching my head thinking of what they would like.Out of all the people in my family I buy for it’s my Grandma that I find I am at my most inspired when things need to be wrapped and under the tree by the 25th. Bless her heart, she excitedly accepted my presents given over the years. Sometimes fragrant, sometimes not. This year I’m
I’ve been referencing the past to find new interpretations and variations on the popular and classic fragrances that were trending at a time when our grandmas were becoming women. I have included some new flankers of vintage classics from iconic houses and beautiful compositions she will relate to and make a new connection with. These are a festive selection of fragrances suitable for a woman.
Chanel, No 5 Eau Premiere 2008 by Jaques Polge. An inspired choice for a Classic Alderhydeic floral. Fresher and lighter on the Alderhydes, it strips away time and date, softening the edges and modernising the famous formulation. Eau premier presents a little rosier than iconic No 5. Grasse grown jasmine, neroli and ylang ylang from the Comoro Islands keep it luxe. Generous in 125 ml bottle .
Photo Stolen dezire
Chanel, Crystal eau Vert 2009 by Jaques Polge. Introducing an ozonic citrus white floral. Retaining the original ‘honeysuckle’ accord and adding magnolia with abstract white flowers, 1974 classic Crystal has been given a breath of fresh air, greener and cleaner. Sicilian lemon noticeably flaring on opening, quickly settling into a powdery green heart that wears fresh and cool, this to me feels perfect for summer.
Christian Dior, Les Creations de Monsieur Dior, Dioressence 2009 original by Guy Robeert. Everything old is new again is the theme song of this classic chypre. Representing a review on a vintage edition, Dioressence presents a timeless opus of Dior which resists time and trends. An olde worlde opening of alderhydes under tart citrus which fades to a bouquet of violet, tuberose, jasmine, carnation, Lily of the valley , ylang and iris root. I’m hoping for a bottle too. Hint hint.
Estée Lauder Private Collection, Jasmine White Moss 2009 by Aerin Lauder , nose Jean Mark Chaillan. Hardly stock standard or obvious, this release is packing earth moss and wet woods. Rumour has it this is an unfinished fragrance from 1980, there are subtle hints of jasmine floating through this superb mossy green floral. New notes added by Aerin are mandarin and black current absolute, this is a fragrance created to honour heritage and family tradition.
Chanel, No 19 Poudre 2011 by Jaques Polge. A new directions for this classic green alderhydeic floral. Sheer powder, more balmy and musky. Iris is the angle on the tree in this rendition of my personal favorite No 19. Poudre is adorned with jasmine, galbanum, vetiver and hyacinth which subtly floats into a soft focus musk with sweet tonka bean. My favourite Chanel flacon.
Guerlian, Shalimar Parfum Initial 2011 by Thierry Wasser. Entirely representing the outer trappings of the original and giving it rose coloured glasses. It’s vaguely related to the famous Shalimar, but think of it as the basics rethought, while still being able to tie it back to the original. No dirty bits to be found anywhere with white musk , Wasser uses popular iris paired with nutty almond nuances, over time drying down to woods and amber; less smokey and vanillic than the original.
Yves Saint Laurent, Opium Vapeurs de Parfum 2012. The tender salmon pink bottle that was once home to super elixir Opium. Pink pepper in the opening gives it initial sparkle, orange blossom and mandarin take it up a notch as the oriental citrus incense becomes gentle and caressing. The Vapeurs edition has less spice than the original and is thankfully low on the sugary calories.
Lancôme, La Vie est Belle 2012 by Oliver Polge, Dominique Ropion and Anne Phillip. The latest mainstream release representing the gourmand sweet fruitchouli category. With three noted noses behind its release, 5000 claimed variations and given a three year probation you would hope ‘life is beautiful’ with this latest from Lancôme. Well I can say it is, grown up and elegant. Feeling over all polished in it’s composition, reflected through the pretty glass bottle design. Heart notes praline and patchouli mix festively with vanilla and the almond-like accords in the base pushing it well into a gourmand territory.
A lot of the time we smell, think or write about perfume is spent on the memories it evokes when we smell them. It is amazing to me that when I get a whiff of many fragrances popular during the 1970s, 80’s and 90’s I am instantly transported back. One of the most glamorous girls in our circle as teens was Margie G. she had a horde of older sisters and they were the coolest of the cool. In many ways Margir G. was the diffused collective knowledge of her older sisters as well as her own striking personality. She was the first to bring back the mini skirt, corduroy, black wool skivvies and a host of other marvelous things in our crew, needless to say we all adore her. I remember her also as the one who wore Rive Gauche.
Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent
Recently I wanted to be transported and went to a counter to spritz. The bottle is pretty much the same but I can’t smell my memory of Rive Gauche in Rive Gauche. Maybe the reformulation has changed it, said I. So off to eBay.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords: Top: Aldehydes, honeysuckle, green notes, peach, bergamot, lemon Heart: Carnation, rose, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, jasmine, gardenia, iris, magnolia Base: Sandalwood, musk, vetiver, tonka bean, oakmoss, amber
Vintage Rive Gauche EdT opens sharp, metallic and green but also seriously sweet: it is an interesting counterpoint and has a very retro feel to it. I think my smell-o-vision has changed somewhat because though this hints at my memory it is not as I remember. Already in that opening half minute there is a fecal feral snarl though that is decidedly of the time and now IFRA and animal rights removed via Tom Ford’s direction of Daniela Andrier during the early 2000’s. That sweet citrus metal welcome warms enchantingly as the flowers come in, it is a big bouquet and no one flower makes a huge stand on my skin but it is honeyed, sweet but not the modern sugary sweet more fresh breath sweet. Beyond flowers but floral, when you smell it you’ll know what I mean but my vocabulary is not up to the task. The heart lasts for hours before allowing the base accords to shine, they are there but very background buoying the whole composition up. It is sweet amber/tonka and wood over dark oakmoss and something animalic that may be the musk. It is quiet by this time, around 5 hours, and will remain so on my skin for longer than I take notice of it, or sometimes I want a respritz before it has gone.
Though my memory wasn’t served perfectly this is a lovely fragrance. Is there a fragrance that should ring bells for you but doesn’t? Have you had a similar experience? I love to read your stories too in the comments below.
Till tomorrow, oodles of love to you from us at APJ,
Portia xx
It’s 1977 and the reigning king of Parisian Haute Couture is 41 year old Yves Saint Laurent. He has brought the Peasant Shirt and Gypsy Look and is about to do a sensational Oriental Brocade themed Autumn/Winter that will also usher in his most extraordinary success, Opium. So much legend and myth surrounds the launch of this fragrance, so many of our friends mothers were Opium Only girls and my BFF Kath’s Mum still wears only Opium to this day. She is the catalyst for this post because I have been lucky enough to procure a 36ml Vintage EdT for her and I also found a 7.5ml Parfum that I will share with her. Don’t tell her though, it’s her Xmas present. SHHHH
YSL Nude Photo stolen leblogdesovena
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander, plum, citruses, mandarin orange, pepper, jasmine, cloves, west indian bay, bergamot
Heart: Carnation, sandalwood, patchouli, cinnamon, orris root, peach, lily-of-the-valley, rose
Base: Labdanum, tolu balsam, sandalwood, amber, opoponax, musk, coconut, vanilla, benzoin, vetiver, incense, cedar, myrrh
The Parfum opens sweeter than I remember, very fruity, nearly over ripe fruit fermenting on a hot humid day, and then the bay and spices wander in, its big but restrained and the skank is hidden beneath layers. The EdT is similar but much more feral, fecal, bed headish with a skanky jasmine lurking around the edges, there is hardly any citrus at all. The EdT is everything I remember of hugging my mates Mums. This is what they smelled like! Fully fragrant, sensual, wealthy Mums that quite often ran their own businesses, ferried kids, looked a million dollars and made sure all the housework was done. How did they do it? Gods know?! We’d jump in the back of their gleaming cars and this is what we’d smell. 30 minutes in and the EdT is starting to warm into itself and become that lovely buttered sandalwood and spicy, floral bouquet; the Parfum hasn’t really moved much but I am getting the beginnings of the skank attack that I knew was coming. The Parfum is definitely taking its time to show all the loveliness that it has to offer.
When I put my nose up to them they are far more similar that if I get a surprise whiff as a hand goes by my face, the EdT is memories, the Parfum not so much and I get a minty/carnation and cool orris during the heart that I had never noticed before. Maybe they are from different eras and they have tweaked the Parfum a little, or maybe some of the notes have become heat damaged or oxidised. It’s Opium but slightly different, the colour, packaging etc all point to it being the real deal though. Ha Ha Ha!! OK Here it is. Parfum has hit skanky town at just over the 1 hour mark there is a very dirty bitch growl coming from my left hand that matches the EdT’s slightly lived in opening but not so outrageous.
I wonder if there is a major difference between the amount of fragrance you put on in a spritz and a dab? The EdT is bigger and more voluptuous all the way through its 5-6 hour span but the Parfum, while remaining softer all along, is more nuanced, sweeter and less animalic throughout and I can smell a coconut twang towards the 6 hour mark that never occurred in the EdT and I can still smell some sweet woods next morning, just barely.
NowSmellThis does a great review and PerfumeShrine talks about the IFRA regulations causing the big change etc
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Guo Pei, The Queen of China”s Haute Couture
I stole these lavish pictures and the video from Fashion&StyleGuru, the most fashion forward blog I’ve found so far. Never in my years in the fashion industry, the theatre or drag have I seen such work. FLAWLESS!
I hope you enjoy a new to me beyond incredible Haute Couture designer from China. Guo Pei is a name that you will be hearing a lot of.
Whatever you do today, give it your best shot. Sloppy work is habit forming, and being less than your best is a quick way to the guilt spiral that heralds depression. The difference between a mediocre job and a brilliant one can be as little as 5% extra effort. It’s worth it for your own peace of mind.
Till tomorrow ,
Portia xx
This Ad/Movie for YSL’s new fragrance Manifesto was released on Wednesday and the Making Of Thursday. I think the ad terrible but the Making Of is lovely and much more interesting and Jessica Chastain makes a fabulous fragrance face, so beautiful and elegant.
Photo Stolen musicrooms
I am now wondering what the juice will be like……
BoisDeJasmin says in her review: Take Thierry Mugler’s Angel and dilute it with sheer, lemony jasmine till all you have left are the pastel colored outlines of the original gourmand patchouli. Shake it up, label Yves Saint Laurent, and you have Manifesto! Featured Accords: Green leaves, bergamot, black currant, jasmine, lily of the valley, cedar, sandalwood, vanilla, and tonka bean.
Advertisement Manifesto YSL
Behind the scenes MANIFESTO YSL
Just short and sweet today, if you’d like to read a full post pop on over to the PerfumePosse where I am lucky enough to Guest Post on Fridays. It’s one of the world’s most read and loved blogs and each week I feel so honoured that they let me contribute. Please go see me there and leave a little Hello note so I know you’ve been.
What did you think of the Manifesto Ad and Making Of? Are you as excited to smell the product as I? Do you like the bottle? I’m thrilled that they’ve used such a glorious purple. Do tell….
Wishing you all the good stuff you wish for yourselves till we see you tomorrow,
Portia xx
While I have never sniffed Le Nuit de l’Homme I do think they’ve done a great job with the ad. Not feminist inspired or even acceptable probably but I think it is the ultimate fantasy of most men. Wanted by 3 women at the same time, all gorgeous, all elegant all within a certain circle of society. The reality would be a disaster but it looks nice in this ad.
Out of interest, has anyone smelt this fragrance? Is it as good as the ad? Does the ad sell the correct product?I expect it to be screamingly masculine by the movie but….
Please enjoy the mini movie, even if it’s just to growl BASTARD at the computer,
Running late from a gig. We have 2 winners to announce tonight
10,000 GIVEAWAY WINNERS
Picture Stolen covenantbuilders
We reached our June goal of 10,000 total individual views last weekend so it’s an extra special giveaway, there are 2 because we smashed our goal so early. Thanks. If you are loving AustralianPerfumeJunkies don’t forget to spread the word, you’ll be surprised who is a secret fume head amongst your buddies; lost and alone thinking they’re the only crazy who is perfume obsessed.
How do you win?
Giveaway #1 you had to TWEET
1ml manufacturers sample OLYMPIC ORCHIDS ARTISAN PERFUMES Siam Proun 1.5ml spray decant of GUCCI No 3 1.5ml Spray decant of TAUER’s Lonestar Memories Manufacturers sample TALLULAH JANE NATURALS Alyana Perfume Oil P&H anywhere in the world
Giveaway #2 all you needed do was Congratulate us on our 10,000 IVs in the comments
50ml BNIP LANVIN Homme Sport
4ml travel size SMELL BENT Frankin Smellie SII#900
P&H anywhere in the world
Picture Stolen berryreview
GIVEAWAY #1 winner is Dr. Talson T. Jose
GIVEAWAY #2 winner is Sam Duncan
Winners will have till 10pm Wednesday June 27 Australian EST to send address details or I’ll give the to someone else.
EMILY BLUNT in OPIUM 2009 by YSL VIDEO
Picture Stolen fashion.telegraph
As a speciasl gift here is the lovely Emily Blunt for OPIUM by YSL.
I hope you stay happy and well, I am touched and thrilled that so many of you have come and looked. Thank you,
Portia xx
I hope you are having a super great weekend. Today a group of us went for Pedicures and Yum Cha. I am currently sporting Lime Green toenails and a HUGE belly, so full it hurts.
THURSDAY GIVEAWAY COMPETITION!
To be in this weeks Competition Giveaway you had to leave a short comment on your favourite gamekeeper, in life, film, novel or story, or if that was too hard just a Hello in the comments. We had a great bunch of stories, gamekeeper and otherwise.
Photo stolen from WildBunchAdventures.com
Here are the 6 great prizes
1.5ml spray decant of Annick Goutal’s Passion 3ml spray decant of Fracas for Men by Robert Piguet 1.5ml spray decant of Eau Mega by Viktor & Rolf 1.5ml spray decant of Bud Parfums Gamekeeper by Kilian Water Calligraphy manufacturers sample (remains) Aedes de Venustas EdP manufacturers sample (remains)
Plus P&H anywhere in the world.
AND THE
Photo Stolen from sistersavealot.com
is StMurphy, who is the gamekeeper: you must get in touch by Wednesday 23.5.12 or I’ll give your prize to someone else.
YVES SAINT LAURENT REVOLUTION
As my nose is still out of action this movie has nothing to do with Perfume or Fragrance. It is the Yves Saint Laurent Revolution lipstick ad. 1000 types of fabulous, like a Burton cartoon, maybe it is. Probably not. So the Making Of comes first and then the movie proper.
What a week we’ve had here at AustralianPerfumeJunkies. As the weather cools here we are probably doing temperature crossovers with the Northern Hemisphere.
When I was a teenager still in Fashion School but working weekends I bought myself a bottle of JAZZ by YSL. Although I’d had different fragrances before from family and friends this was the first time I felt like I had a scent of my own. I still keep a bottle but much of the oomph seems to have left it over time and reformulation sadly. There is still a lingering thrill though when I put it on, a frission of excitement when that spicy, sparkly, herbal squeak as you spray that is both warm and cool hits your nostrils, its steady progression through musky, resinous florals to its leather, earth and woods base. More people should wear this lovely 1986 Woody Aromatic by Jean-Francois Latty for Yves Saint Laurent, a lovely fit for discerning men and women everywhere, not to mention dirt cheap online. And being so yesterday hardly anyone will recognise it, it will be your own scent as it has been mine on and off for over 25 years (OMFG! How did that happen?). When I wear JAZZ, then as now, you can bounce rocks off my self confidence. JAZZ is the scent of centre, the cool calm feeling of being in the right place at the right time and knowing the right thing to say. Although there were plenty of other times I wore JAZZ when things went regularly, or horribly wrong, more often than not it was JAZZ that was there during my early wins.
Photo Stolen from shoppingheavendotnet
This week we’ve done some interesting stuff and we’d like to share some of our discoveries with you in our Thursday GIVEAWAY COMPETITION!
How to enter?
Please give us a short perfume memory in the comments about your first scent that you really feel you owned, that you felt supremely comfortable in.
As we met the Opus Oils Jitterbug Perfume Parlour and their all natural Divine Collection I thought I’d give the rest of my Venus perfume oil sample for you to try.
Then we talked about Miss Boucheron EdP, how about a 1.5ml decant spray so you can have a go at that
Guerlain Terracotta Voile d’Ete was our next target so a 1.5ml decant spray of that also
And then we had our huge 2 day special on Parfum d’Empire so you can have what’s left of my Cuir Ottoman and Ambre Russe manufacturers samples, which were generous to begin with (I have Full Bottles, I’m not depriving myself)
plus postage and packing to anywhere in the world
We want to thank you all for returning each day. Today after you’ve entered the draw please enjoy the 1992 ad for JAZZ by YSL.
Jessica Chastain YSL Manifesto Ad.
AustralianPerfumeJunkies 